Leaving tired Daniel back in hotel, I’m out for small dinner myself. I really haven’t walked around Shibuya at night so I went for a walk and it’s right near the hotel. The night is a new day for Tokyo! My my, the outfit gets funkier and more kids are out and about in groups and ton of restaurant and bar peeps out to catch some more customers standing in the middle of the streets explaining their menus. I walk and walk and found this tiny Ramen place and I just feel from my bottom of the feet that this place will serve delicious ramen!

A friendly waitress offers to make a pic of me selecting my ramen for the night! Many small restaurants in Japan will  have this Vending machine looking cashier by the entrance. You pick a meal and insert the money, get your change then the kitchen will serve your meal. I guess one way to reduce the head account to deal with payment and control the cash been stolen by the workers? Anyway, I pick Miso broth ramen with pork meat!  850 yen which is about $10.00.

Sitting down… like many small places in Tokyo, this Ramen house is also an open kitchen. Simple and cozy. I love it!!

Chef working on my Ramen soup. I hear something sizzling here… Yum!!

Check this out!!! The rich and delicious miso broth with soft Bamboo shoots, soft boiled egg, fresh bean sprouts, chopped scallion and single yet generous portion of sliced pork meat.  This has been absolutely most delicious Ramen I had so far from anywhere. The noodle is just perfect with good bites and body. Heaven~!!!!

Now I know where to be when I ‘m alone and late night in Shibuya. That would be this Ramen house Aji Gen behind the Parco department store tucked in among other many little places.

My Friendly waitress writes down the name of this Ramen house. No business card here…

I’ll be back Aji Gen!! Thank you for the Company with delicious Ramen!

After the temple, I decided to have early lunch here in Asakusa rather than in the heart of Tokyo. I figured it would be much more interesting to have lunch here in Asakusa. There are many little streets with low rise house like places in the area. Shave ice places, Soba houses, knife stores, textile houses, kimono shops, tea houses, paper shops and much more!  There are many interesting traditional looking places here in Asakusa. I started to stroll a bit to find a perfect spot for my little lunch here!

OK, At the end I decided to go to this lovely place below for “Kamamesh: An individual rice pot with various ingredients that you can choose from their offer.  I eyed on this place earlier. My ‘ Travel Instinct’ was smelling it again. ” You know what? This place will be great!”

A jack pot for me!! A beautiful lady and two gentlemen gracefully dressed in lovely hue of Grey Kimono lively greet me. ” Irrat -shiamase!! ( Welcome!) Yes, I’m in a right place and I already know the lunch will be fab!

Here the menu describing what I am having, Kamameshi!!  I just started trying Sea Urchin. In Japan and Korea both Sea urchin is very popular and it is considered as delicacy. I never liked how it looked but I tried one day on a bed of fresh cucumber with shiso leaf and I really loved it. The texture was actually nice. Not too mush or slimy as I always imagined. It has the flavor of fresh ocean and natural sweetness. Now I really like it! So I order the Sea Urchin pot!

Everything is made to order, So I wait for good 20 minutes: 20 minutes for rice gets cooked to a perfection in this small individual pot with nice and chunk wooden top. This is truly “Slow Food”. Pre-cooked Pasta? Forget about it!

As I open the wooden top, I smell the aroma of sweet Sea Urchin and comforting rice all mixed happily and that subtle smell of sake! Ahhhhhh, This is going to be ammmaaaazing!

Oh My God! I only had a little bite and it is absolutely delicious! The rice is perfectly seasoned in broth. It’s not too hard or over cooked. I just know the Sea Urchin is the top of the quality. And simple hearty miso soup to go with. Deliciousness wraps around my head and body and I feel wooed by it…!

Hahahaha, look at my busy hands!! hihi..  By the way, in between while you are eating, you want to cover the pot with the wooden top. 

Good to the last piece. Yum Yum Yum!!!  The meal was about $20.00 including miso soup and japanese pickles. So worth it! There are many amazing restaurants in Asakusa that have more of traditional attitude. You will really love it!

Walking back to main road to catch a taxi to head out to Ebisu to stop by at store Capital, and I keep finding more amazing sights here. Below is a family run traditional rice cracker place. They ‘Hand’ grill each rice patty on the charcoal grills using chop sticks. I see Grandpa, Grandma, Son and everyone here. It almost looked like a movie set. This shop is more than 100 years old.

The name of the shop. Hmmm I can’t really read this one…

Bye Bye Asakusa, Thank you for lovely morning and the lunch! I’ll be back!!!

Wow,  the last time I was here  in Asakusa was 10 years ago with Emiliano. Then I was 10 pounds lighter with big afro and Emi had big mustache and it was our first time to Tokyo together. I decided to re visit the Temple and fun alley filled and lined up with Japan’s traditional snacks, restaurants and souvenir shops! Daniel is off to Tennis match so I’m off to Asakusa on Early Sunday morning, the perfect thing to do before all the shops are open in Tokyo. The temple’s open to public from 6:00 am and the alley is open from 8:00 am.

20 minutes from Shibuya by car or maybe 10 minutes by Subway, The Asakusa is a perfect place to visit if you need a quick fix of good old Tokyo. Ladies with Kimonos are everywhere and also there’s a beautiful temple called ” Sensouji”, which was built 1300 years ago. Two fishermen caught the Kannon statue in their fishing nest in the Sumida River in Tokyo then and this was the genesis of Sensouji temple. Now the temple attracts thousands of people daily.

The perfect scene greets me! Me getting out of the taxi.. Love the driver’s outfit! Below the drivers are waiting to hitch some riders. See the split toe shoes were NOT invented by Martin Margiela! They wear two different heights. One right below the knee and one up to the ankle. The closure is hook and bar. Cool, ha?

The entrance to the Alley. You will walk through all the shops and snacks then it will lead you to the Temple. The fun begins here!

Bean snack shop and Keda Shop. Keda goes up to many hundreds of dollars! I love the last one I am holding. It reminds me of Vivianne Westwood’s Geisha shoe collection with wooden platform.

Kibi-Dango: millet and sticky rice ball with sweet syrup or the black sesame. These are delicious! Below are Mocci with Sweet red bean inside…

Chopsticks and more chopsticks. They are so pretty…

“Osenbe”, the rice crackers. The good thing to come here to buy them is that they are made in the spot and you can taste warm and fresh of everything!

It was early morning, so some of the shops have not opened up yet and the store front is just pretty as Asakusa. You know the “Sakura”, cherry blossom is the flower of Japan.

There are many fan shops on the alley and also side little streets. They go from $10.00 each to hundresds of dollars depends on what’s involved and who made them and so on. You will see many many folks in Japan still use the fans on the street. I mean you need it. How hot is here now?!!!

This is kind of a Japanese waffle maker except that is a more like a cake form with sweet red beans inside. The shape usually comes as gold fish but this looks more like square..!?

Finally made to the entrance to the temple! It was getting packed with visitors!

So, You know what this is? These are the fortunes of visitors! Here I show you what you need to get your fortune read! The first fortune was not fabulous for me so I tried for the second one and the second one wasn’t all that good either, but when I tied my OK fortunes to this metal bar, I realized that I was overcoming my almost misfortune by letting it go from me. I felt much relived and good about it!

This is the fortune box with thousands of small drawers containing millions of fortunes. Pay 100 yen first.

Then grab and shake well this box where contains wood sticks that just look like chopsticks. Each stick has number written on it and you will go to that drawer that matches the same number on the wood stick.

Here me grabbing one stick out of little hole. What’s my fortune number..!!!  It’s…. number SIX!!!

Like I said earlier, Don’t get caught up on your fortune. I felt good leaving my fortune tied to this metal bar here. I felt I overcome whatever that was.

Now it’s time to pray and get blessed. Let’s go get some incense.

Praying for everyone and everything. Yes You! For you too! And the smoke of incense will bless you. I inhaled it too! I feel much blessed…

Getting inside of Temple. You know it’s Sunday morning and there are lots of people here.  It would have been much more tranquil during the week day, but hey I’m squeezing Asakusa for a good break from on going shopping in steamy Tokyo. The fresco on the ceiling below…

Hustle bustle coming through…!

More praying and wishing and asking for forgiving…. I go for this one too! Either that is at the church or the temple, I think it’s all on the same human behaviors… Interesting… Isn’t it?

Leaving the temple and walking down on a quite street, many things cross my mind. Mom, dad, brother, Emi, Gael, Suzy, Mom in law, Dad in law, Beppe, Dani, Tania, Tamara, grandma, Yoonhee, aunt, uncle, family at work, work, boss, friends, myself and my and our life together… It was a short visit all worth to do. Next time you are in Tokyo, you must visit the temple in Asakusa and the alley to the temple. You will love it for lively old traditional Tokyo and also little time for yourself and your loved ones…

Ahhhh, It has been Sooo hot in Tokyo! My my my! Steamy too. Tokyo seems handling this hot weather just fine with their crazy fashion.  I saw a girl with Arm warmer sort of thing too. There are many couples and friends dress alike here with ton of layers. These pink ladies have even fur minis and wigs on! I guess anything is possible in Tokyo…?!  Enjoy some eye candies from the streets of Tokyo!

Rich milky beef shank and bone broth, “Sulong Tang” with Mom and Dad. We come here at least once when I’m in Korea now. The broth is simmered and prepared in enormous iron pots for days and nights sitting on traditional wood burning fire pits. There are multiple pots simmering and brewing this rich broth separated by parts of the cow this restaurant uses.

Here we have a core table of Korean Sulong Tang!  Kimch, young green peppers and rustic miso paste to be dipped, finely chopped fresh scallion. Check out the soup! How milky that is.  Sulong Tang is never served already seasoned. The broth is just water and cow bones that are boiled forever. You will need to season by using good old simple rock salt. Here this restaurant uses Bamboo Baked Sea salt which comes in bit of grey shade. What’s in the soup? Bits and pieces of meat, slices of Ginseng, mushroom. Clean and rich flavor. Actually this soup is ideal for cold winter days, it will fill you up and heal your soul…!

OK, Come with me to walk Myung Dong!!!!!!!

It has been years for me to stroll Myung Dong again. Hustle bustle of million office buildings, clothing shops and all the street vendors you can imagine. It’s the Mecca where Korean consumerism truly breathes. It was then steal cut sweet yam fries in newspaper cones and how many of them I had? Haha!  But now I see the sweet yam is replaced by this amusingly fried potato chips on a stick!  I find them fascinating. They look quite beautiful to me. ” Ajumma” (: a middle aged married woman usually with couple kids) below overseas her “fried” table. Very typical scene in Korea!

A cute little shop called Silk Button, Everything here is made out of Silk covered buttons! And…cousin Yoonhee.

More street food vendors. Oden on stick, ttuck bocki and more… Ahh nostalgia..! This so reminds me of my junior high’s… And cheap street shoes

Just like Tokyo and HK, sea of signs greets you in Myung dong. Wait until the night . They will all lit neon lights…!

More cheap high street fashion of Seoul. Wow the street is getting really packed!

Forever 21 in Myung dong. Entire just hired greet the customers. Did you know Forever 21 is a Korea brand?

You know Emi and I have been really embracing the good old vinyls these days. It became Emi’s weekend routine to find some great albums, which means good music, good cover or good anything you can imagine. Now I try here in Seoul. I love how this place has this mini stools in various colors and height where you can put down your heavy tush. Haha. I got a few my nostalgic vinyls from my high school years like “Lee Mun Se”, ” Lee Seng Chul” and also one album called ” Thank God it’s Friday!” which comes with fancy 3 vinyls inside from this place right here. tHe shop is located on under passage to Shin Se ghe department store in Myung Dong.

It’s now the time for ‘Shaved Ice=Bing Su’!!! Yoonhee finds this place on the second floor while I was taking the photo of potato chips. Nice and Spacious with delicious Bing Su that comes with Red Mango on top! Yum Yum !!

This was mine. Grapefruit and Tangerine Sorbet over the cool shaved ice and shaved banana and to top it off, red Mango!!

This was Yoonhee’s. Green tea Ice cream over the bed of Shaved ice with toasted Almond, sliced banana soft cubes of Mocci covered with toasted Soy bean flower…and Red Mango Frozen Yogurt.  Mega Yum! A hot day? No problem with one of this this!

Pretty much Myung Dong is a big melting pot of everything. People with different point of view, street life, food, shops, finance offices, embassies, coffee shops and so much more.  It’s a place to definitely check out if you are in Seoul!!

After a long day of fitting and all with our vendors in Seoul, Daniel, Amy and I headed out to Garosu Gil in Seoul. Garosu means “Trees that are lined up on the side walk” and Gil means the Street. Garosu Gil is a small area in South side of “Han River” that has many cafes, Restaurants and small boutiques that reminds of Nolita in NY. Bit Young, lively, bohemian and somehow also bit polished. 

Here a home style cooking Korean Restaurant, “Modern Bapsang”.  You will find many places that are literally residential property transformed into a lovely small businesses in Seoul And I like it for it’s approachable warm attitude. I love the pink wall against the green along the rustic wood paneled passage way. You pass the small alley then you will hit the open yard staging the open door restaurant filled with people dining. It’s very Lovely!

One After another plenty of open door restaurants are lined up along the Garosu here in Garosu Gil. It was a Monday evening but it seemed like it did not matter to anyone here. Hustle an bustle, the night is just not long enough!

 A open kitchen Japanese Restaurant.

A sake house.

Sorry I didn’t pay attention to the name of this place, but You can’t miss it!  This hugely open rustic modern coffee shop is quite fantastic with a roof top as well. The street becomes the coffee shop and the shop becomes your street. 

Here’s another good example of a private residency turned into a lovely Italian restaurant. Every inch between the building has been used up for outdoor space business here in Garosugil.

This little and very much old school ” Oden” house is epitome of bohemian soul of Koreans.  Just right amount of space and your perfect friends sitting right next to you chatting and sipping. I find this place superbly designed thinking of your tired soul in mind.

Any Second floor offers  just important business opportunities as the ground floor in Seoul. Just like in Tokyo it’s a big metropolitan city that needs endless space for endless ideas.

After bit of wondering, here we sat down and had some street  food with a modern twist at ” School Food”.  It’s a restaurant where offers all the street food that every Korean had grew up on during the school years.  Above pic shows 9 flavor mini kimbap ( korean style maki roll)! Can you see the Squid ink rice maki with spicy squid inside?  The rest futures toasted baby anchovies, kimchi, tuna with fresh sesame leaf, bulgogi ( thinly sliced bbqed sirloin) and more. Yummy!

This Ttuck bocki will put your tongue on fire! The #1 street food for all the students in Korea. Rice cake simmered in spicy chili broth with onions, cabbage and oden bits. Water please!!

 Here some of cute shops on Garosugil. This shop called ” Happy Lady” had some great soft tops at reasonable price.

If you are visiting Seoul one day, Garisu gil is a place to check out. You will have fun strolling!

Seoul!

It’s day 3 with my family in Seoul and everything has been really around the food so far. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. Catching up with cousin Yoonhee all day, she took us to this little run down “gogi jip” in YongSan Dong. The restaurant is called ” BongSan Jip” (Youngsan Dong 3 ga 1-21, T: 793-5022) and my cousin even saw a party of 6 of a Fashion designer, Muccia Prada here once.  It’s a family run Meat specialized restaurant. You go in, you sit down where you want and order the usual. Chadolbeghi! (Brisket)

The charcoal man brings his small batch of charcoal. Then the circular grill that looks like one made out of bunch of metal chopsticks with center coverage. The light soy based dipping sauce with freshly chopped green scallion and young peppers does the job and also the super thinly sliced the beef Brisket. The thickness of the brisket will change everything. Now what do you do?  Wait until the grill gets sizzling hot then put the beef on the grill until it shrinks (cooks) to the perfection, dip it in the sauce and don’t forget to grab a good mount of scallion and the peppers. Delicious!!  You have an option to order a spicy Miso in a small pot and a bowl of rice to finish the meal! Ton of tofu and more chadolbeghi are in there! Yum!

It’s that time, the World Cup!!  What an exciting event! And I feel extra special about South Africa is hosting this amazing world event this year. A few years ago, I had a privilege to visit Cape town and Madagascar in South Africa. Tony Kretten, Michael Jarvela and myself were 3 main designers who launched the (RED) line within the Gap brand as an effort to educate and help people with Aids in Africa along 4 other major world wide partners: Motorola, Amex, Converse and Apple. The (RED) was founded by a lead singer of U2, Bono, and Bobby Shriver, a current mayor of Santa Monica and long time activist with below in their mind.

Here’s the manifesto of  (RED): www.joinred.com

(RED)™ IS A SIMPLE IDEA THAT TRANSFORMS OUR COLLECTIVE POWER AS SHOPPERS INTO A FINANCIAL FORCE THAT HELPS THOSE AFFECTED BY HIV IN AFRICA. TO DATE, $150 MILLION HAS BEEN GENERATED AND 5 MILLION PEOPLE HAVE BEEN HELPED THROUGH GLOBAL FUND PROGRAMS THAT (RED) SUPPORTS. WHEN YOU CHOOSE TO BUY PRODUCTS FROM (RED) PARTNER COMPANIES UP TO 50% OF THE PROFIT GOES TOWARDS ELIMINATING AIDS IN AFRICA.

Actual few proto styles of (RED) first Launch Collection back in 1995. INSPI(RED) tee, (RED) jean, hoodies… The bottom photo shows Men’s and Women’s surplus jacket from the sketch book. Below continues on following seasons’ inspiration photos, scribbles, brain storms and sketches. We were all fired up to be inspired by the beauty and the culture of land of Africa itself for continuing seasons to develop the line. Ghana, Namibia, Kassena, Cape Town…

Tony, Do you remember,  The Black gold of Sun..?

This was one of my favorite season. I was whole lot inspired by the beauty of Kassena Country of Africa’s Architecture and their most amazing murals.

This Safety pin with one African bead was the Pink ribbon that fights against the AIDS for Gap (RED).

The Town Ship of Cape Town. Where the majority of locals live. Brightly painted Patched wooden walls inspired me to create things that were joined, pieced and stacked with great help of Emily Harris, my long time favorite graphic Artist.

Now Gap’s first 5 years dedicated participation of this amazing journey has been just ended but I hope one day we will re-join the (RED) in bigger and better way. When I was actively designing the RED line such as simple Graphic tees to jeans,woven shirts, sweaters and leather jackets, I was sent along Kim Lim, an amazing woman who really worked her heart out for RED under the Gap brand to go visit all the vendors and factories who were actually doing the production in South Africa. From NY to Paris, Paris to Senegal then finally to Johannesburg then to Cape Town. What a long journey to get there …! And,  I was on constant short flights within the South Africa region to visit one of the most prominent Design expo, INDABA( which means ‘ Bringing together’ in South African) in Cape town,  and also the vendors who produced all our graphic tees and  some of the woven pieces and  a few other vendors in Durban and Madagascar as well.

All of these were such an eye opening experience for me.  One, I knew I underestimated Africa. I mean What did I reaaaallly know about Africa? Hunger? the Aids? then what? Who knew so many haute couture houses such as Chanel and Armani were working together with one of the most highly skilled textile houses and trim suppliers. INDABA expo completely blew my mind. So many artists based in South Africa were already well established working with top interior design firms and brands providing one of kind lamp to artistic pottery, furniture and more world wide. And You know what?  They were cutting edge Modern. Also I had met most amazing people with cause ( yes to help and build the South Africa) by utilizing their creativity at the expo. The scene of Cape town also surprised me. Despite of 15 or more Townships (undeveloped and poor urban living towns for non whites in Cape Town), many parts of the city was quite well developed reminding parts of here in NYC.

But then Yes, it is true that majority of locals do live in this poor Town ships with impossible to cure disease.  South Africa along the rest of Africa does have a huge problem of AIDS. I mean the factories that I visited literally have to calculate the possible deaths of their workers up coming from having an AIDS into their productivity for their production. All the Airports or many other places that require steady work force in Africa have similar problems. Can you believe such a death is so common that you have to constantly fill in the work force?  This causes vicious cycle as follow: the death-new worker-re-training-wasted time over the learning curve -lack of experts in their field-poor quality – death… Ahhh, It breaks my heart..

Typical Township in Cape town.

A local market scenes at Madagascar. I absolutely loved the market! Ton of hand crafts to textile, it’s super colorful. But then this is one of my favorite photo of the market. The Blue sky and quite view. It feels peaceful…

*I thought her look was super interesting in her thrown in together outfit. And of course… the Bare feet. in Madagascar, maybe good half of the population does not own a pair of shoes. Of course the factories where I had visited they did, but on the street it is much easier to spot people without shoes than ones with shoes.

UNESCO built water holes. I heard most of locals does not have water at home in Madagascar. You will see water holes here and there through out the town. There are ton of people living on the street and wash up their clothes and sheets in the small river when it rains and lay them on the grass field off the street to dry them. It was such a humbling experience to see what they have and realize what I have.

Cape town scene across the street from a small Bed and Breakfast where me and Kim had stayed.

Cape town Taxi

A view of Table mountain Cape Town.

I really hope the World Cup 2010 in South Africa will give a healthy financial and mental lift to the land. Mostly for the people who suffers and dying. The Young Generation. Also I hope South Africa government can somehow utilize this opportunity to get some serious attention from the world to help out their social issues-lack of education, poverty and AIDS. So many people live with their myth in Africa. People think AIDS will go away if they can sleep with a virgin or have a connection with their God through a ritual ceremony. We need a constructive education that starts from the womb of a mother for people in Africa and the world. We need a powerful wake up call.

Africa, It’s year 2010 and You are the one who is hosting the FIFA today! I want you to succeed. Succeed in building a better economy, succeed in educating, succeed in healing and succeeding in hosting the World Cup!

And you can help right now by joining (RED)!

joinred.com/takeaction

Some travel moments here…

Early morning Tulum Beach in February this year.

Emiliano and Gael just got tickets to Italy for 6 weeks over July and August, and the end of July, myself will be in Asia visiting Seoul, HK and Tokyo then back to NY for 2 days and off to join the boys and family in Italy for about 2 weeks. It would be super fantastic to see my mother, dad and cousin and bit excited to explore my new favorite city, Seoul again. Asia gets Always hectic since I’m usually there for the work first, but I’ll try to squeeze in some personal time for the weekend with family.  I was watching the “Bizarre Food” on the Travel channel the other day.  Andrew Zimmern shares all the bizarre food and crazy fun traveling the world. And on boy its was Tokyo this time talking about pig’s guts and heart that new hip generation enjoys eating!  I thought it was quite interesting. I like to stroll through also different areas of  Tokyo this time. Should I try  On Sen? The theme restaurant like ” Alcatraz”  looks quite crazy! It would be nice to re visit a temple at Asakusa in Tokyo.

Heyri Art Valley, South Korea.

Check out one of blog about  Sam chung dong , Seoul http://www.lacasapark.com/la/2009/12/a-beauty-samchung-dong-1-seoul-korea/

Yearly trip to Italy has always good balance of knowing what’s coming and not knowing what else is coming. The family, feast, the ocean and friends are what I know then there are always other possibilities that we may stumble into spontaneously! A dance party at a Castle or quick visit to other city in Europe? All is good  surprise and recharging time for us and a chance to oil our ( Gael and Me) Italian to be more current and  be fine tuned.

Last year Art Biennale Venezia, Italy

A local wine shop. Bring your empty bottle, they will fill it up! Italy

Typical early morning scene in Livorno. They read Newspapers and chat with friends for couple hours in early morning feet in the fresh ocean water.

Typical light filled Tuscan scene.

Last year in Paris for our 10 year anniversary.

Champs Elysees

Visit to Berlin with Kelly early this year.

Anyway,, Some flash back photos here but the point is it;s that time again!!  There is this work I like to explore that only down side is that no time travel ALL the time. Brazil, Spain, Iceland, Sydney, back to Berlin and eveywhere else…

If I could just travel and take photos, now That would be my ideal life!

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• Last Dinner in Tokyo: Shibuya Ramen House, Aji Gen
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