Into the Night of Rio: Sugarloaf mountain and Live Samba at Lapa
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The view to Corcovado and the city of Rio from Sugarloaf Mountain, “Pao de Acucar”. You can see tiny “Cristo” on the top of Corcovado looking over Rio. It’s almost surreal and I must say it’s quite cool!
The director of Casa Amarelo, Matthieu told us a few times. “Don’t pass 4:30 for the sunset!” And we just made it! We haven’t stopped at all since we left the Casa Amarelo around 10:00 am to shop Ipanema and Leblon, walk, walk and walk, took pictures, stop for lunch, the markets then back home then literally 2 minutes to drop off our bags, brushed teeth and out the home with a scarf around the neck as the late evening temperature drops quite quickly in Rio now. The line is quite long to get on a cable car up to Sugar Mountain but also it’s moving quite fast. Fast enough. Feeling getting quite tired yet bit excite to get on the cable car, we are patient. 22 Real ( about $20.00) for the ride for both ways per person. The ride itself is quite quick. It’s the wait and the amount of time how much you want to stay up at the deck on the top of the mountain. The view is absolutely amazing and you get to really understand the beauty of the bays of Rio and the physical relationship among the Rio, Christo, the beaches and the people reside within all. Cariocas.
At the bottom of all. The Cable car station. We are only imagine what it would be like while waiting…
The view to the right going up.
The view to the left going up.
The camera just doesn’t do the justice of the actual view for the top. You get the 360 degree views all around the mountain and it’s just breathtaking…!
We did not get to go up to the Corcovado to visit Cristo and I am learning now, Corcovado would have had the better view for me as you get to see several favelas, Ipanema, Copacabana, Sugarloaf Mountain and the lake Rodrigo de Freitas. A good excuse to return to Rio actually!
No this pic is not taken by me as we did not go up to the Corcovado but if you do a Helicopter tour, You can see this view from the Cristo too!
Cristo almost looks like a U.F.O
The beach on the let is the Copacabana. The right one is the lake. You still see Cristo on the back.
A wonderful experience to understand the whole layout of Rio and enjoy the amazing view! It’s one magical city you are Rio!
After, we had returned and had one caipirinha at Casa Amarelo ( thanks Sammy!) munching on couple pieces of bread pre-packing our bags and stuff. We had changed one more time to freshen up but something conservative. No high heels. No flash outfits here! Just comfy shoes and something warm and we were going to walk down to the Lapa from Santa Teresa to check out couple Samba clubs or more like Samba music hall and Dance hall.
It’s a Saturday night and Cynthia and I are determined to go listen to live Samba otherwise we are complete losers with big capital L as we are for God sake in Rio De Janeiro!!! The streets are closed and filled with people in groups and couples hanging out by the side walk bars and cafes eating and drinking. The Vibe is fantastic! It’s lively but also quite quiet. I can’t imagine what it would be like during the carnival.
Lapa is an area located by the bottom end of Santa Teresa and next to Downtown. Lapa is now a real heart where live Samba clubs and dance halls are and once used to be the red light district but since the 1950’s, Lapa has been one of the most important area for the Intellectuals, artist, politicians and writers do come and socialize and celebrate Samba. Lapa also houses on eimportant historical architecture, Carioca Aqueduct. Below.
Carioca Aqueduct, Lapa. The aqueduct was built back in 1723 to supply the water for Santa Teresa from Carioca River but the water pipes were not even until the century later. Now it’s used for part of the Tram rail ( the Rail run on the top of the aqueduct offering the view of the Lapa and Downtown).
I had looked up a few Samba clubs and 2 of them happened to be the best in town. One place is this guy right here you see, “Carioca da Gema”, more of a Music Hall rather than a dance hall. You pay 25 real to get in and they’ll give you drink and food order sheet with your name on to hold on to it. ( anything else from entrance fee is extra charge) We decided to go in! It’s still early as 9:30 ish but Carioca da Gema runs the first show at 9:00 with rotating live Samba bands.
Inside! It’s already getting filled up! but I have to say club crowd at least here was very civilized. No pushing or harassing sort of. everyone keeps their pace and space focusing on music, it was very peaceful and well behaving.
Couple Caipirinha and taste of Samba at Gema, now we are out to street to go check out one more place!
Cigarett, gums and candy guy. When was the last time I saw such? Learnt you can also by single cigarette for 1 real.
Now entering to our real deal of then night. Democraticas! Love the entrance and warm rundown feeling.
Would Cuba would be like sort of? A mansion built in 1807 turned into a Live Samba club, This place is a definitely a dance hall. I feel like I am back in 1950’s. The whole place reminds me of the documentary, Buena vista social club. It has this wonderful old school vibe. I am loving this. Its 11:30 but the night has not really started yet so we are going for another caipirinha!
Down and humble bar at Democratica.
A big wonderful band! Awesome beautiful music you want to dance to again and again and again!
I’ll say Samba is the half of Rio. You just can’t miss it. Ever!!!!
A day in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro
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Ipanema Beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Ahhh, I so wished it was warmer, no actually really hotter! See Brazil right now is in winter even though it’s around 65-70 degrees, it just does not do the justice of hot hot sun slowly baking you to the sexy glowing golden goddess in bright fun bikinis! But we were lucky on Sunday to have descent temperature and lovely sun caressing the city, it was the best day to hit the actual Ipanema beach and markets for a day!
The word “Ipanema” comes from “Tupi Language” which means “Bad water” and what it really means in this case is bad water for fishing since the surf dies too close to the sand that it pushes the fish away. The surf can reach up to high as 9ft in winter time, Ipanema beach is filled with surfers as well as many volley ball & soccer players and also was packed with many Cariocas strolling, running and roller blading along the beautiful and famous mosaic tiled board walk enjoying beautiful Sunday afternoon. Ipanema belongs to the safest area called ” Zona Sul” in Rio and I totally felt it was quite safe and neighborhood like with smaller streets and colorful homes with couple markets like Fiera Hippie on Sundays and everyday vegetables and fish market called Fiera Ipanema where there are many small boutiques and typical Carioca style easy restaurants are. Cynthia and I had walked everywhere to hunt down good images, colors and some good artisanal props and anything that could be great inspiration for our work for Summer 12!
Through out the city, You sill see much of these Mosaic tile work for pedestrian side walks to walls to these major beach like Ipanema and Copacabana. Copacabana’s tile work carries more of big wave like pattern which actually I personally prefer. Quite cool, Ha?
We did NOT see Gisele Bundchen. Or some sort of Rio beauties At ALL this time!! Is it because the weather is not hot as their summer which is more from December to March, the temperature reaches around to 86-87 degrees. Actually I am convinced that those hot Brazilian babes are not form Rio. Maybe from Sao Paolo vacationing in Rio? Or are they all hiding…?
Typical drink and snack shacks along the board walk.
Now walking into the farmer’s market, Fiera Ipanema on Rua Maria Quiteria. It’s a friendly and vibrant awesome market!
I fell in love with Simple and bold bright striped tents!
Samplers are everywhere!!! Sweet as honey, gorgeous strawberries, juicy water melons, Amazonian fruits and so much more. By the time you are done with one isle, you will be already full from shower or free samples offered by the friendly vendors!
Love sardine!!
An awesome Veggie station. You know I’ll eat every leaf hanging off the stand!
OK we are starving and stopping for some typical Carioca food at one of these restaurants by the board walk. I did order this fizzy drink ( non alcoholic drink made by Brazilian Coca Cola company and heard there are many versions including ones you make at home to bars…). I did hear about ‘ Guarana’, this sort of thing that gives you energy. Guarana is a small bright red fruit that contains lots of Caffeine. (about double of coffee beans). The taste? This particular drink right here, Kuat! just tasted like sweet syrupy water with very light fizz in it. I did not care for it much. It didn’t feel like it made me all energetic either. but it sure gave me stomach upset!!! It got me all nauseous!
My order. Rice with mixed sea food in tomato coconut milk sauce. Delicious! But I have to tell you, one called ” Moqueca soup” at long time NY restaurant on Union square, ” The Coffee shop” makes the best one so far I have to say. Is that why we live in NYC? Cynthia, you still don’t believe me about this, but they serve the best kind! I have to say I loved the addition of this hard boiled egg in this dish. You know it’s just so comforting with nice sauce over it with rice… YUM!
Cynthia’s dish. Broiled Cod with fresh fried chips with garlic oil and crumbled hard boiled egg! Com on, You have to love this! Sooo good! Don;t you love her red nail against bright neon strip eon back drop anyway?
One of residential building in Ipanema and the typical yellow cab of Rio.
Now we are at the Hippie market in Ipanema, Only a couple blocks into the town from the Gay beach area of Ipanema beach. Every Sunday. We totally learnt that Rio is an expensive city. This hand made artisanal pieces are quite expensive and also everything else. Taxi, drink, food, clothing… Everything id quite expensive especially if you are brining the US $$. ( the exchange rate is terrible now)
There were couple food stands that run by these lovely Bahian ladies. Bahia is located on north east side of Brazil which is definitely above the Rio. All those good Samba and Bossa Nova was also born in Bahia. Ahh we didn’t really taste any food here as we just ate! But it must be really good and authentic as the stands were really crowded. Next time!
Hand drums for samba!
Now listen to this! The very man, Vinicius de Moraes who wrote the song on his cigarette and a glass of cachaca, “Garota de Ipanema”
Can’t imagine what would be like being in Ipanema surrounded by millions of people under the hot sun and sugar mountain enjoying the beach, the sun and the magical energy of Rio!
Chasing walls of Rio!
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They are everywhere and I’ll keep adding!
Obrigado Cariocas! Day 1 at Rio de Janeiro!
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An easy map of Rio de Janeiro for you. Today, we were at Santa Teresa, our home base and at Saara market in Downtown.
The most used One word in Rio today? “Obrigado!” Then my poor tongue would keep spitting out ”Gracias!” or “ Grazie!” and what else.. Oh I even said, “Arigato!” Actually If didn’t say “Arigato!” that loud stupidly, I could have been almost heard as if I was saying ”Obrigado…!”
But gentile Cariocas were still friendly to us as we pulled out every possible language card we had out of our back pockets, and we did survive the very first day at this warm, raw, lush and quite interesting city, Rio de Janeiro! ( yeah… Italian did help but not much really…)
From a little quick research I did before booking the trip, I knew we wanted to stay at Santa Teresa where is located between the heart of Samba scene area called “Lapa” and an another area where the old Rio meets the new Rio, a downtown typically named as “Centro”. See, Santa Teresa is sort of Montmarte of Rio to me. Run down yet absolutely gorgeous colonial style villas with those pretty metal gates are lined up all along the sleepy cobble stoned hill tops and this quiet bohemian, and artists filled neighborhood houses small bodegas and charming little bars where you can taste authentic Brazilian or more like Amazonian food seasoned with exotic Brazilian nuts and herbs along the superb Caipirinha that is just perfectly prepared!
Then you will also find more than enough of quite amazing graffitied walls and maybe the last true Tram in the entire South America, the Bonde ( it pronounces “bonje”). This bright yellow old school Tram is a little moving gem that provides you maybe the best transportation to access to Lapa and Centro with only 0.60 Real ( about $0.45) per ride or even for free if you dare to hang on to the bar outside the tram windows! Me an Cynthia will try this tomorrow morning when we get down to Downtown to get to Ipanema Beach and Leblon to hunt down good inspirations and ideas for the next summer’s Gap women’s collection.
Today we had gone down to check out The “ Saara Market” in Centro, the traditional downtown shopping bazaar with bustling streets and hundreds of shops where you can buy stuff like Carnival costumes to batteries. It’s down and true to all that chachiki needs for everyday life of Cariocas ( Local of Rio). The streets of Saara consist of historical architecture, randomly located many churches and bustling people crossing the street regardless the color of the traffic lights ( I mean way more intense than NYC) and you can surely feel like you are in the heart of where the locals really hang out.
And…let me share some pics!
I tried to find the best option in our budget to really experience what Rio truly is about. We passed many swanky high rise hotels in the beaches and chose a small guest house in Santa Teresa. A sun room at Casa Amarelo.
Typical Colonial villas at Santa Teresa.
Saara market, Downtown Rio.
A man selling Sandal wood fiber balls. It smelled so good passing by!
Empanada and orange juice shop. Sort of Papaya’s Hot dog shop at NYC.
Fabric shopping with Cynthia!
Passion fruits.
Then we also checked out the Library of Portuguese Literature. AMAZING.
And hold your breath now. Here we were at one of the oldest church in Rio, Sao Fransisco da Penirencia. Baroque style. It was so intense , it was not easy to look at. Really.
I prayed.
OK, Now we are home stretching here. Santa Teresa by night.
Nite nite people!
Easter Buster, NYC
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What a beautiful day we had!! Waiting for the brunch to arrive at Bottega at Maritime hotel, NYC
Usually, Easter means a big lunch with bunch of friends for us. We would roast a big chunk of Lamb and some meaty green veggies, fresh salad and usual Easter sweets just came out of ” the Easter Care Package” from my In- laws in Italy. I could say, Emi and I have had hosted it for all for these many years, but this time, we got all lazy and just couldn’t get bothered and somehow decided to go out for a stroll and an easy brunch in Manhattan. The weather has been really dreadful in NY for the last many months, I felt SSSoo lucky to have such a lovely afternoon for the day!! We had parked the car in the meat packing district hoping we would get a small table out on the terrace of Standard hotel, then we turned and headed out to our all time favorite outdoor terrace of Bottega at Maritime hotel!
There were plenty of NYC folks in Easter spirit around the town as we strolled, and I hope all had a lovely one!
Chilled and relaxed. Good time in Easter!
What else do you need?
From Pretzel to Prada, NYC!!!
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Regardless you are Japanese or not, many NYC peeps were there to support to raise every dime to help Japan’s Tsunami relief. Union Square, NYC.
Last weekend, Emi was busy working with Beppe shooting Alegri’s Spring Campaign. So it meant a day date with Gael for me!
We were at the Union Square movie theater to see Johnny Depp’s Rango ( quite surreal for the 7 year old boy! ) then strolled through Union Square farmer’s market ( spring branches, tulips and all) and not to forget to donate for Japan’s Tsumani relief, then quick yummy Korean lunch at Manna! It was bit windy but beautiful as sun was shinning and quite lovely to have a small walk down to Soho. We also checked out great Prada store on Broadway as I wanted Gael to know ” What a great shop means” pointing out at amazing murals in the store, the fab transparent cylinder shaped elevator, fabulous Spring 11 line of acid Bananas and Monkeys that takes you back to the 70’s swanky sea side Castiglioncello or Porto Fino in Italy ( just imagine Sofia Lauren and Marcelo Mastroianni sipping on chilled campari preferably listening to her own song ” Soldi Soldi Soldi from Boccaccio 70″ despite their kicking Super modern Spring Campaign… And the fab custom jeweleries in bright colored resins of everything you can or cant imagine!! KidRobot is always a must stop as Gael just absolutely loves the place and he gets to pick a small something. Then stop at the corner of Prince street to watch a street band singing Motown songs as munching on pretzels then the last stop at Pearl river! When was the last time I was at the Pear River?!! As much as I love nick nacks and all that chachkis, Pearl river can absolutely satisfy you on a dime! Hopefully Pearl river will never close down as my beloved Canal Jean has long gone from Soho since when…? Ahhh I ssssso miss my Canal Jean filled with the best everything from vintage army pants to $10.00 wool coats! Hip. Cheap. And understated Massive Hit! I just found out that Canal Jean had re opened up on Nostrand Avenue in Brooklyn, so I must check it out and I hope it will not disappoint me… Anyway, it’s always a big fun to walk around and do “me and Gael thing two of us together” in the city. Go shopping, movies on a shared kids’ package, street food, fancy shops, spoil him a little with sepecial purchase then stop and watch oh so amazing break dancers on the street of NYC. And what else… oh and just chatting and catching up hand in hand and it just feels so right to spend some descent time with my little cool son on the weekend… Love you Gael and love you NYC!!!
And… the pics!
Proud Gael after a small donation for Japan.
Beautiful colors of bundles of hanging wool yarns.
Is spring here yet…????
Gael inside the Prada store, Soho.
Prada Spring 11 !
Watch this!
The absolute reason why you love NYC! Prince street.
At the shop, KidRobot, Soho.
And the NYC babes.
A street band, Soho.
MAC meets Wonder Woman, Spring street.
And… Mommy and Gael… Cheeeeese!
Paris
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Typical and always beautiful Paris…. Stylish father and son in St. Germain on Sunday, Window shopping with Fresh Vintage Lacroix, Cynthia’ perfectly french navy stripe and our typical yet delicious lunch at Braserrie Lipp in St. Germain, inside of the shop Astier de Vilatte near Colette, Tea stand at La grande Episerie at Bon Marche, the outside of expensive Goyard boutique, Issey Miyake’s window at the exibition ( FAB!) of Fashion 1990-2000 at the Museum of Decorative Art. Palais Royal and… any street in Paris by night…
The City of Design, Copenhagen’s Best
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Zarahvoigt, Copenhagen
Eriko Makimura designed the coolest jewelries inspired by Klaus Nomi are sold at Zarahvoigt, Copenhagen.
It totally excites me to see these amazing jewelries inspired by Klaus Nomi who was a German countertenor who was known for his bizarrely visionary theatrical live performances, heavy make ups, unusual costumes and highly stylized hair do that crosses with his musical world and the style world of Electronics, Art Deco, Opera, New Wave, Baroque, Disco, Cynth pop and Experimental. I am sure many of you already know who Klaus Nomi was as he also sang with David Bowie on Saturday Night Live and done a few concerts. Anyway, either you love it or not, Klaus Nomi had his own strong color and voice in his style. And the designer and also a pianist Eriko Makimura had done a FAB job translating her muse Nomi to this super cool mini collection of Plexiglases jewelries. Take a look at a few pics from a killer cool custom jewelry shop, Zarahvoigt!
The shop carries also their fantastic and huge range of amazing custom designed jewelries made right in their studio in the back of the shop. If you are ever in Copenhagen, this is a must check out! If John Galiano didn’t say what he had to say about all that and still was with Christian Dior, and stopped by at this shop, you will see these jewelries at his next couture runway! I mean the range they have are magnificent!
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Louisiana Museum, Copenhagen
The main entrance to the wonderful Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
About half an hour car ride on a main highway from the Copenhagen downtown, Louisiana Museum of Art is located in Denmark on the North Zealand Coast, the spot maybe the one of the most sexiest points in the world looking out to the beautiful Baltic sea, where connects both Art and Architecture in such an open and natural way.
Louisiana Museum of Art pays a huge credit to MoMA in New York for it’s inspiration to broaden the concept of modern art to include architecture, design, photography and film. And Louisiana has hugely succeeded the total yet one solid concept to interact all of these in such a natural way. Beautiful sun light filled physical space again filled in highly intellectual art and designs including outdoor sculptures by such artists as Serra, Calder and Giacometti. My personal favorites!
Honestly visiting this museum was the highlight of the day for all of us and we definitely had a good kick out of visiting this beautiful artful space. The museum was running a special exhibition on Picasso as well , so it was an extra special visit for us.
Love how this pic turned out! It’s Picasso’s owl inside of a glass case in the exhibition juxtaposing the life size Picasso’s poster behind on the exhibition wall. A picture of Picasso working on this owl right here .
One of my favorite from the Picasso exhibition. Absolutely loving the colors here: black, grey, the perfect red, yellow and the cream mellows the yellow then crisp white that lifts the whole play on red and yellow. It’s titled as “Stills under the lamp”.
Near the museum’s cafe. Brick, wood, metal, glass and the nature. It becomes the one. Amazing views and natural light wrap you around wherever you are in the museum.
An open yet super cozy cafe with a million dollar view to the Baltic Ocean. The Fire place rocks.
Back inside at kid’s workshop room.
Now at the museum shop right by the entrance. Even though Louisiana started the concept based on MoMA, I must say the Louisiana shop product is much better in general and more integrated to everyday life. Functional.
By the way neon orange, or some sort of fiery orange is everywhere in Copenhagen. More colors below.
One more last look at good old beautiful oil paintings by Danish painter, Harald Giersing.
Viva Louisiana! LOvE ArT! LOvE it aLL!
The City of Design: Copenhagen by Foot
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Copenhagen canal. Frozen and Beautiful!
Charming, quaint, friendly and small. Despite of 30 degrees F that feels more like 15 on your skin as crisp sea side breeze and dampness gets to you, we all were on foot the whole time for the last 2 days. The city is perfect to walk to everywhere and I just can’t imagine how wonderful Kobenhavn (Copenhagen in Danish) will turn into when the bright sunny spring finally arrives to this capital and the largest city of Denmark. I’m here with the Gap design office to do some quick research around the town, and I felt like we have well hit the core of what the city can offer in such a short amount of time. Design. There are many cutting edge design museums as well as plenty of design shops around furniture and life styles. I mean we all are into Danish furniture or we were at least at once. Clean, modular and inviting. Great quality and design that cares about function. A one good designer Danish piece can do it for you. A quick face lift for your living room or the little corner of the kitchen. One perfect chair. One perfect whatever that is. Before we deep dive into the heart of all, first is first, we are on a stroll of this City of Design, Copenhagen!
Colorful buildings along the canal. Every one of ground floor is occupied by a pub or restaurant.
Plenty of restaurants around the town and especially the seafood places and Sushi restaurants.
Bicycles are everywhere in Copenhagen. This sort of design is very common around the town. All day long you will see many locals on the bikes, and the amount of morning and evening commuters on the bikes are impressive. All over the city, you will see the bike lanes with generous width.
The main train station near the Tivoli garden.
Approaching the downtown of Copenhagen. Brrrrrrrr, It’s really cold!
Court yards, court yards and more court yards. You will find many small hidden businesses in court yards. This one was actually a production company. Notice bikes?
I thought it was a cute little hotel, so I walked in but it was actually a production company. Lovely lobby with a hip bar serves coffee and juice to employees and clients. Below, a cute cafe at one of other court yards in the city. The guy was inviting us in, but no time to stop here for the moment.We are strolling and finding cool shops, new colors and next designs!
A back of famous design porcelain store, Royal Copenhagen. Again, another lovely court yard with a Cafe that’s run by the Royal Copenhagen.
Awwwoooo! Among the billion bikes in the town, I come across this sweet hot sexy baby, Vintage Audi! How hot is she?!! The smooth and happy liquid caramel hue, then gorgeous yet naive sleek lines. Ahhh, Love it!
A vintage remake boutique, Kvindehuset where filled with one of many kinds. I did get this acid green and yellow vintage wool blanket turned into a over sized crop jacket thing here. ( super cool!) But most of all, meet this coolest lady, Ms Van Roe who used to be an Art director of fashion magazine, Cosmopolitan in New York in her highest time, 1970’s. The Shop Kvindehuset on Gothersgade street is where she works now and works also with City Council of the tow By the way, Gothersagade is one of the more interesting streets with smaller boutiques carry more interesting products.
Ms. Van Roe in her cool and confident herself.
Another common thing in Copenhagen: Half under ground level shops. Many bars, little design shops, vintage shops and restaurants. They all look great with grand scale windows. This little shop was closed so we window shopped. General store hours in Copenhagen is 10:00 or 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Sharp. Yes. 6:00 pm Sharp!
Here’s a window of Nag store. Typical Scandinavian/European style clothing shop. Another half underground level shop. Bit all black with asymmetrical hem lines with over sized shapes and seams and all. It’s all out there. A bit Rick Owen and bit Margiela. www.nagpeople.com
I should have had a hat on. Brisk walking to fight the cold.
More to come on the City of Design, Copenhagen!
Emi and Gael, Miss you guys!
Feb 13, the Sunday, 41st Street and 7th Avenue, Times Square. Mubarak is out! And Italy, Now it’s your turn! Isn’t it such a powerful thing? Wanting to change and wanting to make it right. It was a small group here in NYC, but every Piazza in Italy was filled and gathered by millions and millions of people of Italy. Especially Women to change it and end it. It’s the TIME!!!
Here Check out Italy standing up:
And the rest of the nation!