La Vida Yucateca, Mexico
Filed Under Architecture, Culture, Fashion, Food, Merida, Mexico, Shops, Street, Travel | 1 Comment
We don’t know why we are so drawn into Mexico but we are drawn into Mexico and Mexico has been really the one country ( beside our home Italy) we keep exploring through repeated visits and researches. I guess it has something to do with unique culture that we are attracted to rather just beautiful beaches and cool drinks to go with… Anyway, our Christmas and New year’s trip has begun on 21st of December with landing on Cancun to get to our beloved home at our heart, Tulum! Relaxing two days first there… Hanging on the beach, visiting local friends to say hi, nice lunch at El Tabano and other usual little things we love to do and always couple new adventures we stumble into at Tulum. Low key and just magical… but then our journey really kicked off by taking off to Merida to explore the city and it’s color and culture and a few amazing historical haciendas to spend our Christmas. Then we did little hops of chenotes and other spots on a way back to Tulum on the road to Coba. Cenote Il-Kil near Chichen Itza to Valladolid to Tulum to Akumal to Tulum again discovering new favorite spots and unbelievable mother nature and maybe couple paradises so called if it is really ever exists… It feels like we have done tons of things yet we know we have so much more we can explore here in Yucatan along the Mexican Gulf or other towns as Celestun, Uxumal, Progreso and many more. Many towns and villages have similarities yet also each has it’s own character and architectural setting along it’s own history. So each visit is always somewhat unique. So far all the people we met have been so kind and friendly to us. We feel welcomed here. Now we have tasted the top of the iceberg of Mexican culture through the last few years, now I feel we definitely had opened up a can of worm to finish it all up . The rest of the iceberg. Traveling allows us to dream, explore, taste, open up our brain, heart and soul. It makes us un-judge or teach not to judge yet also it makes us to get savvier and savvier to navigate and get to new right exciting things in much creative way. We are passionate about it. It’s inspiring and fun to discover and learn. And it definitely helps us to wear our own distinctive color and style.
We had come across many great moments during our trip and here I like to share the essence of Yucateca culture of all!
Christmas eve at Square, Parque de Santa Lucia, Merida: Dancers getting ready to perform traditional Yucatan dance. Elaborate hair pieces, make up and dressing is all quite beautiful. It’s a small and intimate lovely park. And It totally got me all excite! This was the exact kind of situation I wanted to stumble into! The tradition.
No they are not your typical Mariachi. The traditional songs they sang were quite classy and sort of ” Classic” like.
Christmas Mesa at Cathedral, Merida : I didn’t understand 80% of the mesa, but it didn’t matter to me. We are not even all that religious but it was beautiful to be in the Cathedral of Merida with all the locals to spend the night of Christmas. The quire was humble yet gorgeously beautiful. It nurtured our souls. We prayed for everyone we know and we love. Yes including you. Our life and lives of our family, friends, my people at work, Emiliano’s clients. Everyone. It was fulfilling.
Plaza Grande: stroll after the Mesa on Christmas night. The main square where the Cathedral is. All the buildings were dolled with Christmas lights. Below lovely streets by night in Merida.
Beloved book shop by locals and visitors: Amate Books. A great book shop! Merida.
An amazing Antique shop! I’ll say this shop is quite compatible to the “Olde good thing” in NY. Amazing antique pieces and especially the religious statues and objects are excellent. Circa 1913 statue below. Naive and humble expression is what I learnt about most of folk art and religious figures of Yucatan or it could be through out the Mexico. I also like to blog about Ex Voto: the religious folk art, panel painting with a short story to go with mostly thanking for small everyday life event as we came across through books and visiting antique shops during this trip. They are quite fascinating.
Ahhh, what a beautiful face she has! So wanted to wrap her up to bring with us back home then this shop only accepts cash only. We were middle of nowhere to get close to any bank machine. A good excuse to search more sort of things. And honestly, we felt we needed to learn more about these religious figures before we make any silly purchase.
Selvaged old tiles from colonial homes and haciendas. Quite pretty they are… Below, me standing on the elaborate flooring of the colonial home where we stayed at.
Typical street signs. Street is called “Calle” and the most of street does go by the numbers such as : My home is on Calle 66 between Calle 45 and 47.
Gael in front of our colonial home base on Calle 66. Merida. It gets chilly by night and hot during the day.
The main market in Merida. It was quite intense experience for us to go through this market. First of all, it’s monstrously big. And it was the Christmas eve or what..! The market was absolutely packed. And the way everything is laid out, presented, accepted and lived by the people in Merida. It’s cruelly raw and in your face. We were bit shocked. But then we talked to ourselves… You know what? That’s how human live.
Can you just smell what we are smelling here? Live turkeys walk around next to the taco station. It’s crazy and amazing. Moving on to Fish market. Honestly we have skipped the meat area. We have seen them all at Valladolid market. It gets quite intense. Chunk of half of the cow and everything else hanging by the hooks and blood dripping and all… But we were happy to find the fish section here which Valladolid market didn’t have one. Actually seafood were quite fresh. We got half a dozen blue crab and some shrimps to make Christmas dinner before we attended the Mesa at the Cathedral.
I didn’t write a separate blog about our experience at “Hacienda Ochil“;. But here I like to share a few photos of traditional Yucateca food we had at the hacienda. It was hearty and delicious at very reasonable price. Here the chopped fresh garnish for any Yucateca dishes: cilantro, white onion, red onion and radish. Below, Salsa tomate ( no it’s not spicy) and sauteed red onions ( really yummy and sweet)
Lunch at Hacienda Ochil. A casual buffet style here yet the quality is 4 star restaurant with friendly service. And it’s traditional cuisine you want to experience in one of the most beautiful setting.
Hard boiled turkey egg with turkey meatball in a black sauce. ( actually the texture of the eat ball was bit grainy and powdery like. I did not care for it but I tried at least), pork, osso bucco, chicken, rice, sauteed onion all other usual. But really hearty and authentic. Not your double fried beans you know!
Fried tortilla dough with pork meat inside.
The best tortilla that we ever had tasted. EVER! Hand made with Yucateca love! Warm, fresh aroma of corn and just perfect subtle bite to it. Not papery or chewy at all. The perfection. I usually don’t care for any tortilla, so this experience made me pretty much stop eating any other kinds. Snub!
OK, I got it all. Espresso, a shot of Tequila and Sangrita ( A perfect Tequila chaser. a shot of tomato juice and chili, It’s delicious. It tastes sort of like Bloody Mary but san alcohol). The Sangrita goes after the tequila. And the desert plate ranging Dried papaya with queso ( typical and traditional), Pan dulce ( kind of sugared french toast) and of course, flan. Take a better look at Sangrita!
Main Entrance to Hacienda Ochil: about 1o mt car ride from Hacienda Yaxcopoil
Not all Haciendas are this rustic. But we thought it was one good way to dream about how it would have been in it’s shining era. There are many beautiful haciendas available to rent out by the room or even the entire property renovated in fanciest way. They are drop dead gorgeous yet who knows how it had changed from the original condition and details.
The Ceiba tree of Mayan: The largest tree of the Central America beloved by Bats and Harpie eagles. They are gorgeous!
It’s so great to know where things come from. When we stopped by at the local bakery shop after the visit to Ochil and saw those bread, it all made sense. The Ceiba bread!! and below the turtle…
Yes , they are Churros!!!. Hot, Crispy and Swweeeet!! You can really taste the potato. The Churro man told me he uses red potato flower.
An awesome vintage photo we found at the small flea market at Parque de Santa Lucia on Sunday, Merida. This must have been carneballe back in the days somewhere in Mexico. Fantastic costumes and make ups!
I had bit of hard time ot pick out a few photos here out of millions of pictures from millions of moments at Yucatan.
The last picture above will be an anecdote of our new interest in "Ex Voto", especially in religious small paintings done by everyday people. They are fun, naive, shocking and amazing.
Hope you got to taste little bit of it. If you have any question and need more info about specific thing, drop me an email, I can help you.
Go explore!!
Black Swan!
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Darkness is New Cool. Darkness is New Sexy. I just knew this would be a fantastic film to experience some sort of ”New Thing” out there just seeing the poster of the ” Perfect Swan”, Nina (Natalie Portman) in her make up in this Dark, Spooky, Genius, Psychological and Sexy thriller, “BLACK SWAN” by Darren Aronofsky. It was fun time with my team and colleagues at the Gap and it was also a good excuse to get out our hectic office and kick off our for Holidays officially! ( You know what I mean? ) Patiently watched literally million trailers of other up coming films ( …not so great most of times) , and BLACK SWAN actually may have deserved all that openers. This Film IS Awesomely Amazing!
Completely consumed in her life as a ballerina, Nina (Natalie) the New Swan queen of New York City Ballet Company lives this quietly nervous and hair raising mysterious double life as the White Swan and the Black Swan. Is it real that she’s bleeding on her finger tips…? Is that real she really saw it? Did she really stab herself? She’s crazy! No She’s not! Is she? What’s going on? Is her mom crazy? No she just loves her. She’s maybe jealous of her? Does Lily ( Mila Kunis) wants Nina’s role? Who’s sleeping with who? What’s wrong with Nina’s body? What the heck is going on?!!!
I knew I was totally on this. But the director, Aronofsky’s masterfully controlled handle on Nina’s emotions and nerve wracking competition between Nina and Lily, and Nina’s that sliver of fragile will power to hold her self as the Swan queen can get you feel bit lost… But I think right there, that’s the beauty of this film. Many details in this film impose so many meanings but its up to the audience to figure out or “Dream” about how and what is really happening. But there’s no time to justify everything that’s going on the screen. The painfully interesting and strong story of this film leads the audience helplessly to follow the next up with nervous and great expectation. This uncomfortness to watch twisted and manipulate relations among pretty much everyone in this story definitely escalated my anxiety to the end, then I felt sort of Triumphant kind of feeling rising from my heart to see Nina’s success to conquer for her to be the ” Perfect Swan”. You know what? I am greatly happy for her!
Natalie Portman’s magnetic powerful performance and her own perfection to control littlest emotions and details of her as Nina is mind blowing. I am also impressed with her dancing and sculpting her body and lines as the “Swan Queen”. It’s believable. She must have worked so hard on this. So I like to congratulate on her professionalism. I think she had greatly succeeded in this film.
And After I finished the film, I realized how genius it was that Rodarte’s quietly beautiful costumes for Nina had been. Nothing is in your face out -loud costumy costumes. They did not separate one from others in such a clumsy way. You know they are different but you know they are also one. It was the most smart strategy to allow Nina completely lived, consumed, confused and blended as herself as a Ballerina, ”Swan Queen” and also have her become the actual 2 opposite swans herself.
The Black Swan is the White Swan and the White Swan is the Black Swan. And Nina is the both. They are the one.
Rodarte
I just loved all of it. Go watch it! It starts today “Everywhere”. Tell me what you think!
Paris’s Back, 80’s Back, Glam is back, Elbaz is in! : Lanvin for H&M
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So fun!!! And Hope the actual goods will look good as the runway pieces!
And here’s the Campaign!
Talking LOve, Talking 70’s, Talking about you!
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I was born in 1972. The hippie free rebellious organic everything 70’s. So wish I could have tasted the middle of all, but I was only a baby! Completely feeling the 70’s vibe in the fashion air for the moment, here I have a few tears put together.
Io Sono Amore: I am Love
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Paris to Tokyo bound, back in September, tucked in a seat with a glass of wine and puffy eyes and legs. Feeling tired and desperately wanting to watch a good film. The perfect one for a long plane ride… Anyway, Browse and browse… and, Bingo! ”I am love!” ” Tilda!” I only had read two lines of review and saw couple screen shots a while ago. The title always stayed in my head though. It’s such a luxury now to even think of going to the cinema to watch films. I mean I am way too busy. I got no time. So, plane ride is always a chance to make up on a few for me.
The first few scenes of Milano beautifully covered in quiet snow starts the film with wonderful John Adams’ score. I feel a slap on my face, an almost pleasant wake up call. I sit up. I am really getting ready to watch this. I knew this would be going to be different from anything else. I believe Admas’ genius scores are one big part for this film to stay in it’s particular invisible boundary of bit peculiar and almost bit strange modern vibe regardless of its exact time setting ( I believe it’s the turn of the Millennium ), the classic wardrobe ( Jill Sander and Fendi) and the home of Haute Bourgeoisie of Recchi family almost gives a mid century vibe. There’s lightness and this beautiful beautiful light in this film for the whole time which I envy and completely felt in love with. And John Adams sure does his part to that. Kudo to the director of this film Luca Guadagnino to pull it all together in such an artistic way and Yorick Le Saux ’s magnificent Cinematography to die for. There’s a soft and free spirit of 70’s eyes to see the light in this film. It’s beautiful and organic.
There’s a huge influence of Michellangelo Antonioni’s Film-Making is in Io Sono Amore: The artful balance of Cutting and Intense camera work that patiently documenting little details around and within. Tilda Swinton shines with her powerful acting. She speaks so much in her silence. There’s sea of her emotion in her every little move. Her eyes pours all out.
Here I have a few of my favorite scenes from Io Sono Amore.
There are so much coming beyond this point. I didn’t finish the film on a way to Tokyo, so we got it through Netfilx. I highly recommend you to also watch the Director Luca and Tilda’s “Commentary ” on the special bonus track.
It’s a great new classic to learn what Cinema could do and can do.
Apgujung-dong & Chungdam-dong: Seoul
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Galleria Department Store, Apgujung-Dong, Seoul : Filled with Korean designers and also international designers as Louis Vuitton and all. The Facade covered with giant metal disks are impressive.
Paris to Tokyo to Seoul. It’s getting into week 2 now and this is our last stop for this trip and we are excite to learn about the city. Personally I only started exploring Seoul since the late last year, and it has been pleasant surprise and eye opening for me to re discover my home city where I was born, and I must say it has been hell out of good time and much inspiration I get every time I’m in Seoul, so I am only thankful that I get to do this quite often.
Apgujung-dong was already trendy and popular area then ( south side of Han River since the mid 80’s) to all the hipsters, teen agers and beautiful good looking people chasing the newest trend in fashion and food culture. I still hear the Apgujung-dong is quite popular. Is it the most inspiring? I’ll say ” No” to that but if you ever visit Seoul, You want to check it out. There is a trendy street called ‘ Rodeo’ after the famous fashion street in L.A and there are ton of cafes and bars for entertaining.
Korean peeps looove coffee. And every place me and Cynthia dropped by were delicious. There’s a big chain” Coffee Bean” from L.A and also “Star Bucks” as well but also there are million places of independent coffee shops with all the charm and great ideas.
Then we had stopped for a lunch at ” Gaeh Wa Ok” in this area. Concierge at Park Hyatt in Seoul had suggested for their clean and hearty traditional Korean food. I’m already liking the store front. A traditional Pine on the side and simple wood and iron decor is quite chick and beautiful. ( It’s located right off the Rodeo Street)
White cloth covered chairs become the focal point of this restaurant. Simple and serene wall almost feels like a gallery space.
The menu.
While waiting for the food, a bottle of water and a brass bowl containing a humble steamed corn, sweet potato and garlic is served. The table looks like props arranged for a painter to start his still. And typical hot towels for the customers to refresh before their meal.
Clear Dikon ( radish) kimchi . Not spicy at all. Got clean and refreshing taste. Miso paste to dip fresh cucumber sticks and loose cabbage wraps. Miso paste also works as touch of garnish for any kind of wraps.
Restaurants in Korea love to slice things on the table. It’s typical to see waiters using kitchen scissors to do so. This applies to cut noodles, BBQ meat or any other things on the table.
Now our ” Bossam” is ready. Bossam was a treat for the family and a good excuse for Dads to go through a bottle of Soju when moms prepare for ” Kim Jang” : a tradition of big quantity Kim Chi making for long and cold Korean winter. Kim Jang was a good source to take fresh vegetable to survive cold winter especially back in the days where there wasn’t much of winter farming. Clockwise from the left top corner:Filling for Kim Chi with chilli, garlic, salt and other spices before it gets fermented. Pretty much left over from Kim Jang. A stack of salt pickled Korean cabbage ( all cabbages prepared this way before the filling is filled to make Kim Chi), Regular Kimchi with Sesame oil, a bowl of salt cured baby shrimp ( a garnish to add on to Bossam) and finally, the main guy, steamed Pork Belly. How do you eat it? Take a piece of Salt picked cabbage, then a pice of meat, then bit of everything else all stacked up and a big bite out of it. It’s delicious! I believe Momofuku in NY is famous for this and also many restaurants in Korean Town serves this.
This is Soon Dae: kind of Korean sausage with clear noodles in. Steam and sliced and dip it in the simple rock salt with chili flakes or this restaurant also served it with Soy dip with bits of Scallion. Yum!
This restaurant is clean and simple with delicious hearty food! We had very much enjoyed the meal. Here for more info, www.gaewhaok.com
After a delicious lunch, Cythia And I headed out to Chungdam -Dong which is located right next to Apgujung-dong. Chungdam- dong is a quite fancy and rich area of Seoul with expensive residential homes and both international and Korean high end boutiques.
A leather bags and accessories with silver jeweleries. A cool building.
I find this last shop, “Boon The Shop” as an ultimate high end and most beautiful store in Seoul. Apart from architectural beauty, We saw may be the most complete and well edited selection of Marni, Jason Wu, Balenciaga and everything else out of all 3 cities we had visited ( Paris, Tokyo and Seoul). By the way, I really liked the Jason Wu for TSE line…!
It’s exciting to see how Seoul is changing and developing. Seoul is moving forward yet keeping beautiful traditions with modern day twist. A good and tasteful twist. I like it. People go back and see where we had come from and are making the best out of it. Especially if you are an architect, you should really check out Seoul. A lot of interesting things are happening here in Seoul now!
Boon the Shop Address: Gang nam Gu 89-3 tel 542-8006, www.boontheshop.com
Tokyo Now : From Harajuku to Shimo Kitajawa
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From the Top: “Midtown” in Ropponghi, Wig haired dogs at Opening Ceremony in Shibuya, Covered grand piano store fixtures at Martin Margiela at Harajuku, Sho Bun Japanese Restaurant at Grand Hyatt, Ropponghi, Lunch box at Sho Bun below.
Polka dot Tees at Harajuku, Lovely Organic clothing shop “kurai” at Harajuku, Fusion organic Restaurant “House” at Ropponghi with Jane and Cynthia, Multi Bike Seat chair at ” Beams’ Boys”, Shibuya, below.
Train to Shimo Kitajawa and Stroll around the town. Shimo Kitajawa is a kind of Williamsburg of Brooklyn. Maybe just safer. Ton of vintage shops and hipster and hippie stores. North side is bit quieter than the south side with less bars and restaurants but more clothing stores. Low rises and residential.
The last pic is the infamous intersection of Shibuya station.
The hottest Store in Tokyo: RESTIR, Ropponghi
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The store front. Actually more Paris than Tokyo but it got that funky vibe of Tokyo. www.restir.com Restir Midtown 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato -ku
The ground floor: It feels like a Surreal night club in a very nice way.
After the club scene like entrance/ground floor, the staircase with cool light fixture leads you to the upstairs where there are cutting edge assortment of both Men’s and Women’s wear.
Great men’s wear selection from McQueen to Marc Jacobs along ton of progressive jeweleries and accessories.
Cool shoes, Ha?
A line of Vionette was at the shop. I have not seen Vionette for a longest time. I was pleasantly surprised! A beautiful dress with amaizing bead work. Quite modern too.
Check out Restir if you are in Tokyo. It’s very different from Typical Tokyo shops.
Nuts and Bolts and Leathers in Paris!
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Entrance of Leclaireur in Marais, Paris. One of the most cutting edge and influential shop in Paris. I saw leather, PU, Pleather, fur, feathers, spikes, studs, woods and more leathers from the street to stores everywhere in Paris. The Mad Max is Back for this fall! The stretch leather leggings or leather like ( pleather or laminated PU) leggings are the hottest bottom right now. No sign of any jeans in Paris! Also big on whatever mixed hard wear embellishment for tops to bags. Think nuts and bolts and pots and pans!
A guy at at Martin Margiela store on Rue de Montpensier.
From the top, WHAT’s in stores Now: Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owen, Haider Ackermann, Rick Owen, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marantl, Balmain, Helmut Lang, Elise Overland, couple ladies out of million Parisians with Leather like bottoms on.
And it continues on to Paris Spring Runways! From the top: Haider Aclermann ( By the way , Exquisite Collection!), Costume National, Ann Demeulemeester.
and more…!
One piece you want to invest for this Fall and up coming Holiday? A pare of Leather bottom!
Believe me. Go get one!
Merci now, Paris
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If Merci shows it, then it is in. They got great instinct of what is going to happen. The color that is coming to you? Red. All kinds of Red!
By the way, my favorite thing in the shop. This Bell lamp. love it! How beautiful is it to look it up?
Then the textures. Bell lamp shade as well. Lots of open Texture. This is was couch throw, Not sure I’ll use that way, it looked bit scratch , but liking the look of it.
Cool plates! would work out great for appetizers.