Gorgeous City, Gorgeous People: Stockholm, Sweden!
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The Harbor of Stockholm, the capital and the largest city of Sweden full of over 2M of beautiful people reside!
This is my second time here in Stockholm since the last visit about 3 years ago. My little doubt about how much I would remember the city has quickly gone after my good 7 mile run along the water soon after I have checked into Berns Hotel early morning. A strong and perfectly sweetened cup of cappuccino right outside of the hotel gauging out to the park did a quick fix for my 4:00 am NY time Jet lag!
I am here with Gap office to do Fall research and luckily the weather was quite great for our 2 days in this gorgeous city. Filled with beautiful girls and guys, (Really!) the city is just chilled and beautiful. You can walk to everywhere as it is small enough to do so and I definitely believe it is the best way to experience the city. You can do rent a bike but there are also lots of hilly streets, so it can get very tiring especially when you get to the old area of the city, Gamla Stan and Artsy and hip Sodermalm area. You can easily get taxis but again the most areas where you don’t want to miss can pretty much be covered by your two feet!
Here now, come stroll with me to taste the streets of Stockholm!
We are staying at Berns Hotel in City Center area. We were debating between Berns and Lydmar. If I get to come back to Stockholm, I would love to stay at Lydmar. Berns Hotel is super convenient for the location wise with great complimentary breakfast but I think rooms could be better at it’s price range.
The dinning room at Berns Hotel. Their dinning room is the center of the hotel I believe. Somehow Breakfast and Lunch is more popular than the dinner time.
A cute sun-room at Berns hotel. You have a nice view to the park outside. I love this room!
My cute and delicious breakfast at the hotel sun room. Lots of flax seeds over fresh black berry yogurt and muesli. A cup of cappuccino and delicious lox on a piece of multi grain and pumpkin seed bread. Yum! By the way Lox in Stockholm is to die for. Sooo Amazing!
All striped out and I am ready to hit the road!
A clean city, beautiful city and…
It is filled with beautiful him, beautiful her and beautiful couples!
Simple up-dos and ponytails are definitely dominant with little black everything and little denim jackets.


This lady at COS store so chick in her simple yet elevated neutral colors and great accessories.



Saw lots of long braided hair too.
All lean and lanky as majority of other youngsters in the city, this friendly shop girl at Acne pulls off tiny black leather skirt super cool!



Second day going in we are at Sodermalm area. It’s one big mix of Williamsburg, Lolita, bit of Soho and Fort Greene. There are more than enough of good vintage shops in this area. This is a vintage and thrift shop, Emmaus.
You all love Cheap Monday from Sweden. This is the shop in Sodermalm area. Each platform is in letters.
Cheap Monday is the second chain shop where I saw a sewing machine right in the middle of the floor after ” Monki”. I guess they possibly do alterations for the customers right at the sight.
A cool Tee shirt fixture.
On the underground level at Cheap Monday, there is a Screen Print studio with a big glass wall. It’s very cool to see how they make the screen tees.

Now here we are at the Old part of the city, Gamla Stan. This little island is located in between Norrmalm and Sodermalm. Gamla Stan takes you back to the old time of Stockholm with pretty Mediaeval streets and buildings. Royal palace is also located in Gamla Stan.


There are many cute little shops in Galma Stan including super touristy ones. This shop carried many cute posters and stuff. Not bad.
There were quite a few shops of linens and stuff.. Soft, cotton bit antique like and boho-ish..


Lastly, quite amazing dinner on the first night at restaurant Mathias Dahlgren at Grand Hotel, Stockholm.
Every seating at the table is pre- set with this quite Zen like a sheet of brown paper menu, a cracker bag, silver wears and a wooden butter knife and glasses.
Common and widely loved multi grain crackers.

Menu is set up by region and kind of ingredients and all the portion is in between appetizer and main course.

Reina, Cynthia and I ordered 3 dishes and shared them all. The first, Salmon and Deer Sashimi. The Salmon in general here is like gold to me. I know salmon is body does good kind fish but I am not usually so crazy about it unless it’s a top quality sashimi. This was the top quality sashimi and it was amazingly delicious!
They love dill here and actually it has grown on me. Mixed Mushroom with steamed coal fish. Amazing.
Pumpkin and broccoli with Truffle and Parmesan.
Langoustine.
Baked chocolate and 2 more… It was so good!
As we are moving on to Paris and London for the rest of the week, we only had really a day and a half in Stockholm but surely fell in love with the city! It’s a great place to people watch, eat, feed your eyes with great modern design and get inspired. Full 3 days will give you plenty time to do the museums and all.
LOvE Stockholm!
Again, Puglia!!
Filed Under Architecture, Culture, Family, Food, Friend, Italy, Restaurant, Street, Travel | Leave a Comment
Giovinazzo by night. A view from a locale, Ecclesia.
Now it has been already 2 years since Emi and I had visited beautiful Puglia. First encounter with Mamma Lucia and her gorgeous Bocconotti, Love at first sight in Poligano, Endless night wonder at Giovinazzo, pretty white city Ostuni, exotic distinctive Puglia’s architecture : Trulli at Albero Bello… So much beauties in so little time then, it definitely made us want to come back to Puglia to see more. And here we are back to explore down further south through Lecce and on. Stay tuned for “The next Toscana of Italy”, Puglia!
Sweet moment. Truly it is an “Open” bar with a view of the port behind. After a day of long lunch with Beppe’s family, running in the park and the gorgeous dinner filled with plenty of fresh Riccotta di Bufala at the piazza of Giovinazzo, here we are stopping by for some cocktails and friends. The bar is located on the tip of fort at historical town and it’s elevated location gives you plenty of cool sea breeze and amazing view to the town.

Beppe and Emi


Dani and me
The time goes by, it get’s more lively. The music is going and people are dancing. Kids are running around and everything is just cool.
There are enough of sitting and lounging area and you can also have some food here as well. Gael fell asleep on a chair…
Gaetano. He’s a friend of Beppe and the owner of this cool bar, Eclessia.
Walking the night away. The breeze tingles you around.. It’s so perfect!



The lively piazza of Giovinazzo. It’s almost like a Christmas here! There are many little festivals throughout many cities and towns of Italy this time around. Notte Bianca, Sagre… Tonight, there was a parade of people in historical costumes through the town of Giovinazzo.
Streets are blocked from the cars and literally everyone is out and about!
Made through a big crowd and waiting for a dinner!
Spec and Ricotta salata. Wait for the next one!
Fresh Riccota of Bufala. ( Buffalo in English) This melts in your mouth. Sssso light! So milky! So smooth but not dense. Airy, fresh and just delicious!
Gael loves anchovy and olives. So Italian he is. Cheese~!

Nite Nite….!
When Fashion surpasses Art: Savage Beauty, Alexander McQueen, Met
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The Alexander McQueen exhibit: Savage Beauty at Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC
I have been dreading to go to Met to see Savage Beauty as whoever went to the exhibit said, “It’s so popular you need to be in the line for so long like hours then it’s too crowded that it’s hard to see all in detail!” But regardless, I knew it was going to be amazing. ” Exhibit will make you cry!” that’s what I heard a lot too. I was lucky enough to get free private access to the Museum this Monday through a friend at the museum as the Museum is closed on Mondays. But due to the high demand of this show, Museum had introduced ” Met Mondays with McQueen” starting from June 6. And it will cost you hefty $50.00 entrance fee but I highly recommend it otherwise not sure how you can say you really saw the exhibition with all that big crowd. And very nice audio tour ( narrated by Andrew Bolton, Sara Jessica Parker, Philip Treacy and more!) is on the house with this special Monday tour I believe.
Last Year, The 40 years of YSL Retrospective at Paris was amazing, beautiful and unbelievable. But still it stayed in fashion. Beautiful clothing with impeccable workmanship in beautiful setting. But Savage Beauty definitely felt closer to an art exhibit. McQueen’s fashion surpasses countless Artists’ art out there today. And I like to pay a huge credit to Mr. Andrew Bolton, the curator of this exhibit and Costume Institute who handled many years’ yearly gala. I had a privilege to work with him personally on a small project related to the last year’s Gala, American women as Gap was major sponsor to the exhibit.
And Mr. Bolton, you’ve had beautifully executed Savage Beauty to translate Alexander McQueen’s dark, strong, complex and bold approach to his artful inner world. The rooms were perfectly McQueen. The lighting, the materials of the wall, the music and utterly dark and chick showcases and the stage. I absolutely loved it. The Colors in the room, runway clips, the most amazing head and shoulder pieces, the materials of the setting… I could go on and on about this. It felt beautifully expensive and perfectly regal but also completely modern and dare futuristic. Just like who Alexander McQueen was.
The entrance! Red tinted microscopic glass pieces and ostrich feather dress on the left and the infamous Razor clam shell dress on the right. It kills me. I highly recommend you to get the Audio tour. You get to hear stories behind from actual people who worked on or worn the actual pieces.

The first room, ”The Romantic Mind”, is dedicated to the tailored and mostly jacket pieces. Lots of these pieces were landed by the actual owners for the exhibit. McQueen’s Savile Row in London’s tailoring experience is showing through these pieces. Only showing a few pieces here.
The washed concrete wall and naive wood flank is familiar contrast we see everyday now but again it works beautifully against McQueen’s impeccable hard tailoring.


The second room, “The Romantic Gothic” filled with aged mirrors.



This guilded golden glass showcase is absolutely to die for and the amazing McQueen’s work…






“The Cabinet of Curiosity”, a room dedicated to many of McQueen’s amazing Accessories and their relationship to related items. This room truly made me fill like I was in a Art exhibition.
My heart deeply aching…. The Spine corset with a tail.
Approaching to the Fan dress. Just like those delicately cut out Japanese wooden fan.
Yes, She’s turning.






There are ton more in this “Closet of Curiosity” room. I kept going back in there. It was hard to end myself and move on.
” The Romantic Nationalism”, McQueen celebrates his root, London. He was very proud of the city where he came from.


“The Romantic Primitivism”

” Romantic Exoticism”
“Romantic Naturalism, the last room”

I only have a few pictures from the Savage Beauty in this post. You need to see All in person. It ends on August 7. So hurry up!
It was truly one of the most amazing exhibitions I have seen. Not just McQueen itself but the whole package, it is a great exhibition. Also excellent website.
And NEVER TO MISS, click on THIS to watch clips of McQueen’s runway shows.
Ultimate Summer Party: MoMA PS1, NYC!
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Awesome Breezy Entrance at MoMA PS1. Warm Up Ps1: the Ultimate Summer Party for NYC!
I can’t believe it’s already the 14th year now MoMA PS1 is holding this music, dance, art installation that’s all happening in one gigantic outdoor party on Saturdays all summer long at this cool industrial area in Queens, NYC!!! When we all heard then MoMA was branching out a sister MoMA out to Queens: PS1 taking over formal Public School #1 on Queens, We all were bit skeptical even though there are a few prominent Art and Design institutional places like Noguchi museum in the same neighbor hood. \It felt bit out of the way compare to the mail one is on posh and touristy uptown in Manhattan. But PS1 had proved that was only a worry that we didn’t have to have at all after all. PS1 now has grown into a proud and even more rebellious and interesting little yet not so little sister of MoMA fueling Powerful Energy of New and Young Generation of Cool NYC peeps. And maybe even of the “World” as you will be surprised to see and hear how many international visitors at not just “Warm” but maybe more of “Hot” summer Dance parties that PS 1 is housing year after year. Every year PS1 holds a competition to design and doll up their envious grand schemed concrete and grabbled awesomely modern yard, and I personally like to thank to MomA doing this so as this is an absolutely a brilliant idea and also a another definite reason what attracts me and sure all other visitors to go visit PS1 as the yearly brand new Summer installation is something that you must not miss.
This year’s simple yet breezy and green installation is another winner that you want to see and I highly recommend the actual exhibitions that are going on in this beautiful formal public school space as it’s filled with much entertaining (I rather like to call it entertaining! ) Rayan Trecartin’s Any Ever : the short film series, and my absolute favorite of all, a screening of Alejandro Jodorowsky’s The Holy Mountain ( the screening ends on July 24th) which I ended up buying the DVD at the bookstore is another one you should not miss!!
The Warm Up Summer party at PS1 runs until the September 3rd with various DJS from around the world, So you haven’t missed much but certain exhibitions will do end at certain point, so if you are not sure what to do on Saturdays, pS1 Warm up party will be the perfect thing to do for this entire summer!
Now I like to share some pics from my visit to PS 1 Warm Up party this Saturday, July 16!
Yes the kid are welcome, but if you like to bring your little ones go early and live early. It get’s bit intense for the little ones later on. The party hour is 2-9 pm.
Hay Garden. No Smoking!


Real good seating this year. Not too obscure to sit down and there were plenty of these to mingle and chat.


Loving the fact they had brought quite an amount of trees this year.



Gael, no worries, I promise you I’ll take you here! The September 3rd, We will come back all together with Dad!
Yes, we will play ping pong too! Love you. Miss you Gael!

Loving the Crowd. The People. All together. Can’t help it!

DJs and Bands rotating all day.


Inside the Museum building. Entrance at Ryan Trecartin’s.
There were 6 rooms I believe set up in all different way with Head sets for you to use. Plenty of odd and fun seating were built for the audience. And comfy!



Hospital beds turned to mega seating.



I have mixed thoughts and feeling about Laurel Nakadate: Only the Lonely work series. Hmmm , If anyone likes to discuss about it with me, shoot me an email!
I adore PS1’s staircase murals!



Permanent collection: James Turell’s ” Meeting”, 1986
Visitors gaging and enjoying this wonderfully opened up room with natural light and air coming through.
Here’s the movie I was talking about. Crazy, beautiful photography, not normal, disturbing, funny, sick, calm, tripping and everything else. Alejandro Jodorowsky: The Holy Mountain, 1973 and couple more scenes from the film below.





The Book store.
The cafe.

7:30. Now it’s really crowded! Music’s pumping, people are dancing, being silly, whatever!




Ahhh Emi, I so wished you were standing right next to me!! I miss you Emi!!
With Adriana and Dani.

Good job Sir! The last DJ.

If you haven’t yet, go check it out!!!
Escadaria Selaron, Rio de Janeiro
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250 steps of Escadaria Selaron, connecting Santa Teresa and Lapa, Rio de Janerio
Oh it was so not easy to find these steps covered in all sort of colored tiles as it’s tucked in between hill top of Santa Teresa and the small side street next to aqueduct at Lapa. Steps are covered in mainly yellow, green and red as the Artist calls the red portion is his “personal problem” which he did not explain why but you and I can understand the reasons behind the yellow and green. See I totally remember watching the music video, “Beautiful” of Snoop Dogg featuring Pharell cheerfully singing on these steps and fearlessly cruising Favelas and Copacabana with hot Brazilian ladies, and I used to say to myself, if I go to Rio then I’ll go see that steps! and Here I am finally at the top and the bottom of the very famous steps, Escadaria Selaron!!!
So here, Watch this!
The very first step on the top looking down. See you would not expect to see the grand colorful view just yet. You can only see it by looking up!
The Chilean born artist Jorge Selaron began renovating a dilapidated steps that ran along the front of his house back in 1990. It started as his side project along his painting but this soon became the main project and real passion still continuing till today and he claims to do so until he dies. There are many tiles were sent or given to the artist from people around the world for him to add on within his own tile work. You can see small individual tiles designed with names of cities such NYC as well.
Here, I’ll lead you step by step!
The first top portion of the steps.


Along the steps, the side walls of the houses are all dolled up too!


Here’s the artist himself painting. Jorge Selaron. He’s sitting in front of his Gallery.





That white flag is from my home, South Korea!
Yeap! My tourist moment.
Getting closer to the bottom of the steps. It get’s more elaborate. See I think it is good to start from the top. So you don’t have to walk up that 250 steps! Get there through Santa Teresa Convent form Santa Teresa rather than from Lapa.
One more pic with the very man, Jorge Selaron. Yes all of this work is done by him!
Here’s the manifesto of Mr. Selaron about the steps.


If you are ever in Rio, You can’t miss this.
It’s one big color result of one small artist’s passion that is recognized internationally!
Viva, Escadaria Selaron!!
Into the Night of Rio: Sugarloaf mountain and Live Samba at Lapa
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The view to Corcovado and the city of Rio from Sugarloaf Mountain, “Pao de Acucar”. You can see tiny “Cristo” on the top of Corcovado looking over Rio. It’s almost surreal and I must say it’s quite cool!
The director of Casa Amarelo, Matthieu told us a few times. “Don’t pass 4:30 for the sunset!” And we just made it! We haven’t stopped at all since we left the Casa Amarelo around 10:00 am to shop Ipanema and Leblon, walk, walk and walk, took pictures, stop for lunch, the markets then back home then literally 2 minutes to drop off our bags, brushed teeth and out the home with a scarf around the neck as the late evening temperature drops quite quickly in Rio now. The line is quite long to get on a cable car up to Sugar Mountain but also it’s moving quite fast. Fast enough. Feeling getting quite tired yet bit excite to get on the cable car, we are patient. 22 Real ( about $20.00) for the ride for both ways per person. The ride itself is quite quick. It’s the wait and the amount of time how much you want to stay up at the deck on the top of the mountain. The view is absolutely amazing and you get to really understand the beauty of the bays of Rio and the physical relationship among the Rio, Christo, the beaches and the people reside within all. Cariocas.
At the bottom of all. The Cable car station. We are only imagine what it would be like while waiting…



The view to the right going up.
The view to the left going up.
The camera just doesn’t do the justice of the actual view for the top. You get the 360 degree views all around the mountain and it’s just breathtaking…!
We did not get to go up to the Corcovado to visit Cristo and I am learning now, Corcovado would have had the better view for me as you get to see several favelas, Ipanema, Copacabana, Sugarloaf Mountain and the lake Rodrigo de Freitas. A good excuse to return to Rio actually!
No this pic is not taken by me as we did not go up to the Corcovado but if you do a Helicopter tour, You can see this view from the Cristo too!
Cristo almost looks like a U.F.O
The beach on the let is the Copacabana. The right one is the lake. You still see Cristo on the back.
A wonderful experience to understand the whole layout of Rio and enjoy the amazing view! It’s one magical city you are Rio!
After, we had returned and had one caipirinha at Casa Amarelo ( thanks Sammy!) munching on couple pieces of bread pre-packing our bags and stuff. We had changed one more time to freshen up but something conservative. No high heels. No flash outfits here! Just comfy shoes and something warm and we were going to walk down to the Lapa from Santa Teresa to check out couple Samba clubs or more like Samba music hall and Dance hall.
It’s a Saturday night and Cynthia and I are determined to go listen to live Samba otherwise we are complete losers with big capital L as we are for God sake in Rio De Janeiro!!! The streets are closed and filled with people in groups and couples hanging out by the side walk bars and cafes eating and drinking. The Vibe is fantastic! It’s lively but also quite quiet. I can’t imagine what it would be like during the carnival.
Lapa is an area located by the bottom end of Santa Teresa and next to Downtown. Lapa is now a real heart where live Samba clubs and dance halls are and once used to be the red light district but since the 1950’s, Lapa has been one of the most important area for the Intellectuals, artist, politicians and writers do come and socialize and celebrate Samba. Lapa also houses on eimportant historical architecture, Carioca Aqueduct. Below.
Carioca Aqueduct, Lapa. The aqueduct was built back in 1723 to supply the water for Santa Teresa from Carioca River but the water pipes were not even until the century later. Now it’s used for part of the Tram rail ( the Rail run on the top of the aqueduct offering the view of the Lapa and Downtown).
I had looked up a few Samba clubs and 2 of them happened to be the best in town. One place is this guy right here you see, “Carioca da Gema”, more of a Music Hall rather than a dance hall. You pay 25 real to get in and they’ll give you drink and food order sheet with your name on to hold on to it. ( anything else from entrance fee is extra charge) We decided to go in! It’s still early as 9:30 ish but Carioca da Gema runs the first show at 9:00 with rotating live Samba bands.
Inside! It’s already getting filled up! but I have to say club crowd at least here was very civilized. No pushing or harassing sort of. everyone keeps their pace and space focusing on music, it was very peaceful and well behaving.



Couple Caipirinha and taste of Samba at Gema, now we are out to street to go check out one more place!
Cigarett, gums and candy guy. When was the last time I saw such? Learnt you can also by single cigarette for 1 real.


Now entering to our real deal of then night. Democraticas! Love the entrance and warm rundown feeling.
Would Cuba would be like sort of? A mansion built in 1807 turned into a Live Samba club, This place is a definitely a dance hall. I feel like I am back in 1950’s. The whole place reminds me of the documentary, Buena vista social club. It has this wonderful old school vibe. I am loving this. Its 11:30 but the night has not really started yet so we are going for another caipirinha!
Down and humble bar at Democratica.

A big wonderful band! Awesome beautiful music you want to dance to again and again and again!

I’ll say Samba is the half of Rio. You just can’t miss it. Ever!!!!
Obrigado Cariocas! Day 1 at Rio de Janeiro!
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An easy map of Rio de Janeiro for you. Today, we were at Santa Teresa, our home base and at Saara market in Downtown.
The most used One word in Rio today? “Obrigado!” Then my poor tongue would keep spitting out ”Gracias!” or “ Grazie!” and what else.. Oh I even said, “Arigato!” Actually If didn’t say “Arigato!” that loud stupidly, I could have been almost heard as if I was saying ”Obrigado…!”
But gentile Cariocas were still friendly to us as we pulled out every possible language card we had out of our back pockets, and we did survive the very first day at this warm, raw, lush and quite interesting city, Rio de Janeiro! ( yeah… Italian did help but not much really…)
From a little quick research I did before booking the trip, I knew we wanted to stay at Santa Teresa where is located between the heart of Samba scene area called “Lapa” and an another area where the old Rio meets the new Rio, a downtown typically named as “Centro”. See, Santa Teresa is sort of Montmarte of Rio to me. Run down yet absolutely gorgeous colonial style villas with those pretty metal gates are lined up all along the sleepy cobble stoned hill tops and this quiet bohemian, and artists filled neighborhood houses small bodegas and charming little bars where you can taste authentic Brazilian or more like Amazonian food seasoned with exotic Brazilian nuts and herbs along the superb Caipirinha that is just perfectly prepared!
Then you will also find more than enough of quite amazing graffitied walls and maybe the last true Tram in the entire South America, the Bonde ( it pronounces “bonje”). This bright yellow old school Tram is a little moving gem that provides you maybe the best transportation to access to Lapa and Centro with only 0.60 Real ( about $0.45) per ride or even for free if you dare to hang on to the bar outside the tram windows! Me an Cynthia will try this tomorrow morning when we get down to Downtown to get to Ipanema Beach and Leblon to hunt down good inspirations and ideas for the next summer’s Gap women’s collection.
Today we had gone down to check out The “ Saara Market” in Centro, the traditional downtown shopping bazaar with bustling streets and hundreds of shops where you can buy stuff like Carnival costumes to batteries. It’s down and true to all that chachiki needs for everyday life of Cariocas ( Local of Rio). The streets of Saara consist of historical architecture, randomly located many churches and bustling people crossing the street regardless the color of the traffic lights ( I mean way more intense than NYC) and you can surely feel like you are in the heart of where the locals really hang out.
And…let me share some pics!
I tried to find the best option in our budget to really experience what Rio truly is about. We passed many swanky high rise hotels in the beaches and chose a small guest house in Santa Teresa. A sun room at Casa Amarelo.










Typical Colonial villas at Santa Teresa.

Saara market, Downtown Rio.
A man selling Sandal wood fiber balls. It smelled so good passing by!
Empanada and orange juice shop. Sort of Papaya’s Hot dog shop at NYC.






Fabric shopping with Cynthia!

Passion fruits.



Then we also checked out the Library of Portuguese Literature. AMAZING.






And hold your breath now. Here we were at one of the oldest church in Rio, Sao Fransisco da Penirencia. Baroque style. It was so intense , it was not easy to look at. Really.



I prayed.
OK, Now we are home stretching here. Santa Teresa by night.








Nite nite people!
The City of Design, Copenhagen’s Best
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Zarahvoigt, Copenhagen
Eriko Makimura designed the coolest jewelries inspired by Klaus Nomi are sold at Zarahvoigt, Copenhagen.
It totally excites me to see these amazing jewelries inspired by Klaus Nomi who was a German countertenor who was known for his bizarrely visionary theatrical live performances, heavy make ups, unusual costumes and highly stylized hair do that crosses with his musical world and the style world of Electronics, Art Deco, Opera, New Wave, Baroque, Disco, Cynth pop and Experimental. I am sure many of you already know who Klaus Nomi was as he also sang with David Bowie on Saturday Night Live and done a few concerts. Anyway, either you love it or not, Klaus Nomi had his own strong color and voice in his style. And the designer and also a pianist Eriko Makimura had done a FAB job translating her muse Nomi to this super cool mini collection of Plexiglases jewelries. Take a look at a few pics from a killer cool custom jewelry shop, Zarahvoigt!



The shop carries also their fantastic and huge range of amazing custom designed jewelries made right in their studio in the back of the shop. If you are ever in Copenhagen, this is a must check out! If John Galiano didn’t say what he had to say about all that and still was with Christian Dior, and stopped by at this shop, you will see these jewelries at his next couture runway! I mean the range they have are magnificent!
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Louisiana Museum, Copenhagen
The main entrance to the wonderful Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
About half an hour car ride on a main highway from the Copenhagen downtown, Louisiana Museum of Art is located in Denmark on the North Zealand Coast, the spot maybe the one of the most sexiest points in the world looking out to the beautiful Baltic sea, where connects both Art and Architecture in such an open and natural way.
Louisiana Museum of Art pays a huge credit to MoMA in New York for it’s inspiration to broaden the concept of modern art to include architecture, design, photography and film. And Louisiana has hugely succeeded the total yet one solid concept to interact all of these in such a natural way. Beautiful sun light filled physical space again filled in highly intellectual art and designs including outdoor sculptures by such artists as Serra, Calder and Giacometti. My personal favorites!
Honestly visiting this museum was the highlight of the day for all of us and we definitely had a good kick out of visiting this beautiful artful space. The museum was running a special exhibition on Picasso as well , so it was an extra special visit for us.

Love how this pic turned out! It’s Picasso’s owl inside of a glass case in the exhibition juxtaposing the life size Picasso’s poster behind on the exhibition wall. A picture of Picasso working on this owl right here .
One of my favorite from the Picasso exhibition. Absolutely loving the colors here: black, grey, the perfect red, yellow and the cream mellows the yellow then crisp white that lifts the whole play on red and yellow. It’s titled as “Stills under the lamp”.

Near the museum’s cafe. Brick, wood, metal, glass and the nature. It becomes the one. Amazing views and natural light wrap you around wherever you are in the museum.
An open yet super cozy cafe with a million dollar view to the Baltic Ocean. The Fire place rocks.






Back inside at kid’s workshop room.

Now at the museum shop right by the entrance. Even though Louisiana started the concept based on MoMA, I must say the Louisiana shop product is much better in general and more integrated to everyday life. Functional.
By the way neon orange, or some sort of fiery orange is everywhere in Copenhagen. More colors below.


One more last look at good old beautiful oil paintings by Danish painter, Harald Giersing.



Viva Louisiana! LOvE ArT! LOvE it aLL!
The City of Design: Copenhagen by Foot
Filed Under Architecture, Copenhagen, Culture, Design, Shops, Street, Travel | 2 Comments
Copenhagen canal. Frozen and Beautiful!
Charming, quaint, friendly and small. Despite of 30 degrees F that feels more like 15 on your skin as crisp sea side breeze and dampness gets to you, we all were on foot the whole time for the last 2 days. The city is perfect to walk to everywhere and I just can’t imagine how wonderful Kobenhavn (Copenhagen in Danish) will turn into when the bright sunny spring finally arrives to this capital and the largest city of Denmark. I’m here with the Gap design office to do some quick research around the town, and I felt like we have well hit the core of what the city can offer in such a short amount of time. Design. There are many cutting edge design museums as well as plenty of design shops around furniture and life styles. I mean we all are into Danish furniture or we were at least at once. Clean, modular and inviting. Great quality and design that cares about function. A one good designer Danish piece can do it for you. A quick face lift for your living room or the little corner of the kitchen. One perfect chair. One perfect whatever that is. Before we deep dive into the heart of all, first is first, we are on a stroll of this City of Design, Copenhagen!
Colorful buildings along the canal. Every one of ground floor is occupied by a pub or restaurant.
Plenty of restaurants around the town and especially the seafood places and Sushi restaurants.
Bicycles are everywhere in Copenhagen. This sort of design is very common around the town. All day long you will see many locals on the bikes, and the amount of morning and evening commuters on the bikes are impressive. All over the city, you will see the bike lanes with generous width.



The main train station near the Tivoli garden.
Approaching the downtown of Copenhagen. Brrrrrrrr, It’s really cold!

Court yards, court yards and more court yards. You will find many small hidden businesses in court yards. This one was actually a production company. Notice bikes?
I thought it was a cute little hotel, so I walked in but it was actually a production company. Lovely lobby with a hip bar serves coffee and juice to employees and clients. Below, a cute cafe at one of other court yards in the city. The guy was inviting us in, but no time to stop here for the moment.We are strolling and finding cool shops, new colors and next designs!

A back of famous design porcelain store, Royal Copenhagen. Again, another lovely court yard with a Cafe that’s run by the Royal Copenhagen.
Awwwoooo! Among the billion bikes in the town, I come across this sweet hot sexy baby, Vintage Audi! How hot is she?!! The smooth and happy liquid caramel hue, then gorgeous yet naive sleek lines. Ahhh, Love it!

A vintage remake boutique, Kvindehuset where filled with one of many kinds. I did get this acid green and yellow vintage wool blanket turned into a over sized crop jacket thing here. ( super cool!) But most of all, meet this coolest lady, Ms Van Roe who used to be an Art director of fashion magazine, Cosmopolitan in New York in her highest time, 1970’s. The Shop Kvindehuset on Gothersgade street is where she works now and works also with City Council of the tow By the way, Gothersagade is one of the more interesting streets with smaller boutiques carry more interesting products.
Ms. Van Roe in her cool and confident herself.
Another common thing in Copenhagen: Half under ground level shops. Many bars, little design shops, vintage shops and restaurants. They all look great with grand scale windows. This little shop was closed so we window shopped. General store hours in Copenhagen is 10:00 or 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Sharp. Yes. 6:00 pm Sharp!
Here’s a window of Nag store. Typical Scandinavian/European style clothing shop. Another half underground level shop. Bit all black with asymmetrical hem lines with over sized shapes and seams and all. It’s all out there. A bit Rick Owen and bit Margiela. www.nagpeople.com

I should have had a hat on. Brisk walking to fight the cold.
More to come on the City of Design, Copenhagen!
Emi and Gael, Miss you guys!
Where the old meets the new: Ssamji Gil, Insadong, Seoul
Filed Under Architecture, Culture, Design, Food, Seoul/Korea, Shops, Street | 1 Comment
Ssamji Gil in Insadong, Seoul
This is my fourth time visiting Insadong since the first time I went with Mom and Emi when my brother got married about 9 years ago. Somehow Insadong always brings me some sort of nostalgia that actually I really don’t know about that well… But I secretly love that vague and warm nostalgia about my own fantasy of what old Seoul would have been. I was born in early 70’s so I wasn’t there to live the middle of all but I would have loved it and I don’t know why, but I think I am right about guessing Insadong today somehow carries that old charm of 70’s Seoul. I just feel it. I really like the fact that good portion of Insadong does not allow any cars around. It’s laid back luxury you can have in the middle of busy Seoul. Or in any metropolitan city. It’s relaxing… Insadong then (1392-1910) was dominated by Art school, ” Dowhawon”, is still adorned by many writers, artists and craftsmen. It’s bit bohemian and very traditional despite how commercial it could be yet I am Sssooo thankful that Seoul really is doing a great job to reserve such an area like this till today keeping much character and authenticity. How do you know the new is good if you don’t know the old. I believe. Then a few years ago, Ssamji Gil has opened up in Isandong. Ssmjigil is somewhat a mall with 70 shops of small businesses. Hand made soaps, paper shop, a little boutiques sell their one of kind things… And I believe this small mall became a catalyst for the revitalization of Insadong. Unlike other common malls, Ssamjigil sets back allowing the complex to blend into the street-scape. It was quite a generous and considerate decision from the investor and developer point of view. You know how it can easily become. High-rises of million shops selling whatever that is. More money and higher density. But Ssamji Gil is bit different. It’s a quite low rise structure made out of concrete, metal, glass and wood definitely feeling modern yet warm and approachable by having this open layout using ramp style passage ways (think Guggenheim Museum in NYC but done in rectangular shape rather circular line being able to to house shops easily on the linear lines). The overall style of Ssamji Gil is easy and airy with naive looking signage, kind of business and an open court yard. It’s a relatively new mall in this old area yet again it’s modern enough to feel relevant to today’s society. Ssamji Gil has set a perfect sort of new direction for good old Insadong.
Ssamji Gil Court Yard.
A few of actual stair cases in the mall. A stair way to get to underground level where there are small Korean restaurants and cafes.
Visitors’ scribbles on the washed concrete wall. It looks quite interesting. Below, cute mural of an elevator area.


A miniature artist shop. These low sitting tables full of yummy traditional Korean food and snack with Soju are 2/3 of size of your palm. Cute, ha?
Then, cousin Yoonhee and I stopped by at this traditional Korean Accessory shop, Gabe. Cute window captures our eyes. Below, 2 little hats and a pair of baby shoes.

I ended up getting one of “Norigae”, a tasseled pendant sort of women’s accessories for traditional Korean dresses. They are all hand made and depends on ow elaborate the design is and materials are, the prices starts from $30.00 up to couple grands. Norigae ws widely used for women in royal family and “Ghi Seng”, the geisha of Korea. Norigae was attached to “Gorum”, a long tie for the traditional Korean outfit, “HanBok”’s shirt.
Hanbok’s shirt, “jugori” and Noriae.
Colorful paper boxes for ” Norigae”. I picked out the top one. Hot pink with black trim.
The shop, Gabe carries all sort of little accessories as these thimbles as well as small pillows for needles, hairpins, textiles and more…
Another thing that really caught my eyes were this hair accessories. You know Emiliano does hair, so whenever I see interesting thing that related to hair styling or tools, I like to take a look at them. ( and it was a little for Emi ). The hairpiece is called ” Tzchokmuri” a braided hair and the main big hair pin that is used to secure the braid to the head is called ” Binnye”.
A fabulous Binnye, the hairpin. It comes all different sizes, designs, materials and all ( Gold, silver, white gold….)
More Binnye and other hair accessories.



A simple hair do here. Just one Binnye and Tzchomuri. It’s quite beautiful.
After quite a time we spent at Gabe, Yoonhee and I headed up to the top floor where there is a lovely passage way with a wooden deck: a garden meets pedestrian board walk like vibe. It’s really really lovely here. I can’t imagine how it would be during Spring and Summer with bloomed flowers and lush green leaves.. and of course more cafes to visit there…
Leaving Ssamji Gil… No that’s not me standing there…!
I just can’t get enough of Korean street food even though most of time i pass it. This is Hottuck, a sort of cryspy pancake that is fried on a hot griddle with sweet syrup inside. Sweet, hot and crispy! yoonhee and I did not pass it this time. It was delicious!
Crispy Sweet Hottuck!
A herb shop in Insadong.
Insadong is also the best bet to taste varieties of Korean Teas. There are many small and big scaled beautiful traditional tea houses with galleries and beautiful court yards. Kyungin Gallery. is one of many well known Tea Houses where also has a galley And It is my favorite tea house in Insadong. The Insadong street stretches about 700m offering fun and rich opportunities to taste traditional culture and art of Korea. And it is my little nostalgia of old Seoul. Go visit and enjoy the laid back old fun and also the new fun of Ssamji gil!
